Paintwork by brush?

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fablovely
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Paintwork by brush?

Post by fablovely »


Hi,
Now my Traveller has a gearbox (thanks Ray) I'm going to get the paintwork sorted. I'm on a non-budget, so was thinking of painting it myself. I'm useless at spraying. Please can anyone recommend a body paint that I can apply with a brush that isn't too expensive? My Traveller's white (officially/originally: Glacier White.)
Fablovely :)
Cam
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Post by Cam »

Why not try Tekaloid coach enamel. Apparently not too expensive, you can get it in any colour. I think a lot of paint factors will be able to colour match it too.

Have a look at:

http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk/
Gareth
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Post by Gareth »

Don't forget that even when brushing, preparation is everything. Sand everything to give a good key, and follow the instructions on the tin - you won't want to see any (oh ok, too many ;)) brush-strokes in the paintwork.

I'd like to see how it turns out - maybe get some pics as you go along?
Happy Minoring!

Phyllis ~ 1962 Morris Minor 4 Door Deluxe
Black coachwork with Red Duo-Tone Upholstery
fablovely
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Post by fablovely »

Tooo cool Cam!
Thanks, good tip.
Will try for pics G, (when painting weather returns.)
Fablovely
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Post by delta558 »

And I know it's obvious, but make sure you get a GOOD brush - a friend of mine painted his VW camper with a brush after seeing an article in practical classics magazine. The "reader's restoration" in the mag he showed me was complimented on the standard of the paint, which was almost as good as a spray job - he'd used thin-ish paint, sanded down after every layer and done about ten layers in total. However, Neil (my friend) decided to do four coats with your bog-standard B+Q £2 paintbrush. Streaks everywhere, and half the bristles were left on the vehicle!
Good results can be achieved if you're willing to spend the time, but go to an art shop to buy a couple of decent brushes. You may pay more than a tenner per brush, but it will make all the difference.
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Post by Robins »

Go for it Fablovely, my mogie van is brush painted and although I do say so myself it looks pritty good. And like has already been quoted, preperation is everything, and go for a really decent brush. I can't remember off hand what make I used, I think it could have been a 'Hamilton profesional'. Go for a dry and slightly warm day but not to warm, do it in the shade but out of the wind, that way you won't get drag on the brush which is another causes for brush strokes.
Although I spray my cars now, my van has still got the brush finished coat I put on nearly 3 years ago because I think it has real character. Also use a light colour as they are the most forgiving, don't think about using black as that will show up every brush grain on the car. Good luck.
cheers, Daniel
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Post by Robins »

The brush I used was a 1 1/2 inch 'Hamilton perfection' brush. You can get them from a 'Dulux centre' or 'Brewers' etc, a trade decorators shop probabley found on you local trading estates.
les
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Post by les »

Someone has hand painted the interior of the van I'm restoring, so to spray it with cellulose now requires it all to be removed, but I'll be diplomatic and keep my views about hand painted cars to myself!
Dizzi141
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Post by Dizzi141 »

Apparently, using a paint roller gives quite a good finish, it looks terrible to start with, all air bubbles etc but then they settle and its ok next day.
Visit http://s64.photobucket.com/albums/h184/dizzi141/Moggie/ to see the progress on Rosie.

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edd
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Post by edd »

Apparently, using a paint roller gives quite a good finish
Ive painted quite a few aeroplanes with rolers. it gives a reasonoble finnish but it can be improved if the paint is brushed out with a v good brush.

Edd
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_h_____
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Post by _h_____ »

I had a hand painted traveller, and to be honest it was pretty good, the guy that did it (PO), used a brush to apply and then a sponge to get rid of airbubbles and brush strokes, after I got the car, I cut it back with some polishing compound, the paint was thicker than when you spray anyway, and it looked pretty good, not as good as sprayed but if you are on a budget (or have no budget) I thought is pretty reasonable.
salty_monk
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Post by salty_monk »

Learn how to spray every time... It's not rocket science & will not take any more time plus you'll get a much better finish.
Use an electric spraygun if you want to do it on the cheap, I haven't used one but there was a review in Practical Classics that seemed to think there were some pretty good ones for about 60 quid I think...
If it's only a couple of panels or repairs to panels then you could quite easily use cans.
Preparation is everything & make sure you get plenty of primer on there & pleanty of top coat. Important to remember that top coat covers nothing so if you have any marks at all in the primer they will show through.
For a shortcut try using the plastic extra thick primer (can't remember it real name!) from Halfords which will cover in only a couple of coats...
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Post by fweddy »

Regarding spraying - I was no pro but am happy with the results I'm getting - I can't say its hard, its just a matter of planning and getting the feel. But cost is a factor, not so much for paint but equipment. I went and just bought a compressor and gun then I always have it on hand when I'm ready to paint. Normally as it is when the weather is fine, and I have the time I'm normally out of thinners or something else is holding me up and the shops are shut :o(
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iwant1
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Post by iwant1 »

Guys Guys Guys if he is like me, and has no or very little budget then definately go for a roller, me and my brother habe both done this with remarkable results, admitted not as good as a proffesional respray, but if prepared correctly, then hamerite smooth gives a great finish, and is fantastic against rust. All i did was remove traces of rust with a wire brush and jenolite, the i used a thick bushy roller to get in all the little cracks (couple of coats) then i used a fine roller for the latter coats again only about 2. I have done two wings so far and they look great. Plus as hamerite spreads relatively well, and is thick at the same time, so not much is needed. My bro did his hillman imp and the results were great.
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MrA.Series
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Post by MrA.Series »

Wow! can you guys imagine a hammerite 'hammered' finish on a car?
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Post by Matt »

i thought that but i wasn't going to say anything......
Serial Morris Minor Owner and Old Vehicle Nutter
rayofleamington
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Post by rayofleamington »

I've seen 2 so far in hammered enamel finish - they were both appalling. Matt black with a roller would have been half the price, but twice as nice.
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Post by nick_h »

Hammerite do a smooth black paint that does not have a hammered finish. I'm using it at the moment to brush paint removable parts, dynamo, air filter etc. It takes a bit of getting used to but I am finding the knack now ready to do the engine bay by brush. Should be doing this next week, but sone prep work to be done yet. I don't think I would have the confidence to brush paint the exterior with it though. It's quite expensive paint and the thinners is even more extortionate! I use cellulose thinners on my brushes and they come up clean every time for a fraction of the cost.

Nick
Cam
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Post by Cam »

I use cellulose thinners on my brushes and they come up clean every time for a fraction of the cost.

Strange.......... I tried that on Hammerite covered brushes and it did not touch it!! The proper stuff worked a treat though, even if it is expensive. Mind you it's still cheaper than buying a new brush every time!
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Post by iwant1 »

hamerite smooth is the way to go, not hammered finish
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