Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi folks

I have an old Wilmot Breedon locking petrol cap already on a filler pipe, but no key. Does anyone know where the lock number is, so that I can try and obtain a replacement key? (FS type fits perfectly) I would like to fit it onto the Morris, but without a key it isn't much good!

Alternatively, is it possible to dismantle to remove from the filler pipe? I could then fit a replacement cap to the collar already on the pipe.

Thanks,

Dom

If you go to a traditional locksmith (rather than a a key cutter) they should be able to "pick" the lock and then make a new key for it.
One I go to locally recently made a key for a friend after he lost his car keys using the boot lock and charged £18.
This is reasonable for an ignition type as I've found others charge more.
I suspect for an FS key they are going to be far cheaper though as it's a simple lock.
One time you could go to a car accessory dealer and they had a board with all the FS key's hanging up. I suspect autojumbles will now have the same type of key boards so you could take the cap and try them all until you found one that fitted I've done that before now and takes ages !

Paul Humphries

Try Bull Motif, ESM etc. I know Bull had a board with all the key numbers on - we got one for Daughter's car. They may be able to help if you describe the petrol cap I dont think WB made many different designs that fit the Minor.

Thanks both, will give BM a ring later. Off to put the car through the dreaded MOT - wish me luck!

Good luck!

Hmmmm
failed - spongy brake pedal and nsf not working at full efficiency. Have to now dismantle and check that they're clean & dry again - no fluid leaks (shouldn't be with new QH wheel cylinders all round!) Then re-bleed. Maybe I need to remove rear cyls to prime with the orifice held upwards? Tried injecting fluid in when in situ. Could be air there still I suppose.

Never had any bother with the rear brake bleeding - it's another of the strange tales that hang about the board. If that's all it failed on - no probs! But odd you would have poor efficiency with new cylinders. Assuming they are all free and moving easily - and you can bleed out the 'spongy' brakes - I would swap the front shoes around in a mix and match with the other side, then try try again! Good luck. At least nothing major failed!!
Edit - just a thought - if the brake shoes have ever had fluid on them (in the past) it will always come back to the surface - you MUST fit new shoes.

No fluid contamination before, replaced last year and remained dry ever since. I'll take myself off into the garage after supper and have a look. (My poor partner Linz - she hardly remembers what I look like now, spent so long in there the last few months!) I suppose it's just possible that I was overly generous with copper grease on reassembly? I'm sure I wiped my hands on my trousers before touching the shoes.....

Mary said for Linz to either take a photo or to get out there and help you.

I have discovered the cause of both spongy pedal and pulling to one side - the brand new QH front cylinders on the nsf wheel are defective. You can clearly see the fluid seeping* (that's British Understatement Grey for p*ssing) out of one, if not both, when the pedal is depressed - which in turn makes ME depressed! GRRRRR

* So much so that the entire drum and shoes are totally flooded! Amazing really that they even worked at half strength!

the brand new QH front cylinders on the nsf wheel are defective

Sorry to say it, but from the description of the fault, that was almost inevitable! Until the car spares supplierse get hassled a lot and pass the hassle on to the parts makers, this kind of thing becomes all too normal

Never had any bother with the rear brake bleeding - it's another of the strange tales that hang about the board.

It depends on the cylinder internals. The 'good' ones have alost no cylinder volume when the piston is pushed home - therefore nearly no trapped air. The rubbish ones (most of them now) have loads of space to trap air at the back of the piston.
I guess when you've worked on and driven enough minors you will have seen most problems...

Just "bitten the bullet" (that reminds me - must make appointment to see the dentist) and bought a complete "Do your brakes" kit from BM. The lockheed version works out at around £150, including brake pipes & bleed nipples. They'll be sold straight away, as I already have shiny new kunifer pipes. Master cyl not included in the kit, but have already fitted a new Lockheed one. so, lockheed all round - I won't be buying any pattern parts again, even if well established makers such as QH. Too expensive when factoring in new brake shoes needed thanks to fluid contamination, half a litre of fluid at least, and a considerable amount of wasted time! Ahh well... I still have 9 days left before having to pay for another test! My local MOT man allows the vehicle to be removed for upto 10 days without retest fee.
Thanks again for all your help, advice & support!

[quote="rayofleamington"][quote]
It depends on the cylinder internals. The 'good' ones have alost no cylinder volume when the piston is pushed home - therefore nearly no trapped air. The rubbish ones (most of them now) have loads of space to trap air at the back of the piston.[quote].
Aaah, so that could explain the discrepancy- some having no problem with rear bleeding, and some having awful trouble- could that little gem perhaps be pasted up somewhere for the edification of all head-scratchers??