Morris Minor Owners Club

New to Minors, but not new to getting underneath cars.....

F reg 4 door - 1100cc - recon engine a few years back, and then abandoned. Just got the car.

Motor turns over on remote starter, new battery, and with the aid of Mr Haynes, I have traced, checked and named the wires int he engine bay. All are original except for the extra on the opass side fuze ( for the radio.
So it looks like the car hasn't been monkeyed with electrics wise.

I can't get power to pass side fuze. Power to this comes from the ignition switch via a white wire.

Using Haynes I see that power goes into the switch from A1 terminal on the control box, but this terminal is as dead as a dodo.

How can I test my control box? Should the A1 teminal be live all the time?


thanks

Have a look at Barry's excellent wiring diagram (print it out and keep in car) in the 'sticky' at top of this section. Yes - A1 must be live all the time. Do your lights work ?

Haven't gotten round to the lights - wanted to get the thing firing up ( but not running (you have seen the core plug thread)

A1 defo isn't live at any time. What has gone wrong - is the complete control box goosed? Easy/cheap to get hold of?

Battery is new, driver's side fuze and wires off it work fine ( horn plus something else) but with no power from A1, there is no power into ign switch and hence no power to pass side fuse ( coil, fuel pump etc)

Why are the lights a tell tale sign?

Thanks

Because they are fed from A1 too! Check for bad connections/oxidised wires etc. But do study that wiring diagram - it's good!

bmcecosse wrote:Because they are fed from A1 too! Check for bad connections/oxidised wires etc. But do study that wiring diagram - it's good!

Thanks - it is a good diagram - but i'm sad and satisfied with Haynes too!

Will let you know after the weekend's fettling if I get the lights working - doubt it tho - test lamp and Avo showed 0 v and 0 A at A1.

Where does A1 get power from? Somewhere in the coils of thick wire/armature type affafir?

A1 gets it's power internally from the A terminal via a coil round one of the control box bobbins - it's there to boost charge when the lights are on. So - check if A has power, if so - then failure must be inside the control box. Temporary fix will be to connect wires in A1 directly in to A terminal. Worry about the charge boost later - it's hardly any difference anyway, and if you intend using the car much I suggest an alternator installation will be far better then wasting any cash on the control box!

You speak a language, and use methods I understand

It's obviously a national trait.

All for upgrades - once this thing runs and the bodywork is on the way to getting sorted, it's brakes and handling, little more performance - ie fairly original looking, but capable of being used for more than just a summer concours show trip.

Many thanks.

All that is easily done - don't worry - plenty of advice here. Stick the A1 wires into A and see if eveything works - it should!

DavetheMinor wrote:All for upgrades - once this thing runs and the bodywork is on the way to getting sorted, it's brakes and handling, little more performance - ie fairly original looking, but capable of being used for more than just a summer concours show trip.

A standard car is a lot more capable than that. I use mine as a daily driver and for long road trips. I'm off on a rally around Ireland on Saturday.

alex_holden wrote: I'm off on a rally around Ireland on Saturday.

Have fun.

I am currently on my second '57 beetle, and am on my first '57 23 window VW Microbus. Both runners and drivers - but I am much happier now that I have disk brakes and "warm" engines capable of propelling me around, and stopping at the same pace as modern traffic. Both will cruise at over 70mph, with great MPG and stop like a modern Escort/Astra/Merc. No stock Minor (or other recent popular/affordable stock classic will do that)

Much as I love old cars (I have had dozens) I have never been keen on originality for originalities sake in my cars - I can look at stockers at shows and museums. ( and I do love them). Useability every day.

We have a runner - the apprentice fitted up the new control box and it fired first time after 5 years open / sheeted storage!!!! ( new battery, plugs and points duly fettled first of course)

Missing a core plug and a leaky rad I hear - Will be fixed when I get home tomorrow.

Thanks everyone. Brakes after that so at least it's mobile.

Hi all
Can you advise where i will find the wiring diagram,My 1970 has no spark at the plugs,and I need inspiration
Thanks

jaxonedy wrote:Hi all
Can you advise where i will find the wiring diagram,My 1970 has no spark at the plugs,and I need inspiration
Thanks

In the sticky at the top of this section of the forum!

Here:

http://www.morrisminoroc.co.uk/index.ph ... ic&t=19679

No spark ehh? Try looking for loose connections at the coil and dizzy. Did this come on suddenly - or has the car being lying for ages and you are 'wakening' it ?

Wakening following a long lay off,unsure of its last action! i am a bit clueless on basic electrics,but have changed the points,condensor,cap,plugs,rotor, leads look good
Have a voltage from points to earth when points open, wires seem ok, but when I conect the cable to the terminal on the side of the distributor it sparks slightly, it is a + , so could the spark mean a short?

Incidently the fuel pump is not clicking, has a + feed, could there be a connection?
Thanks again

No connection except they both get power from the ign switch - just clean the fuel pump points and get it going! You will need new petrol for the first start up. Also - have you spun the engine over on the starter with some oil down the bores - and to get oil pressure up ?
If getting sparks there - there should be HT sparks too! You can try taking the 'king' lead (centre one) out of the dizzy cap and fit a spark plug to it and earth it on the block. Then flick the points - the plug should spark!

Thanks again
I will try at next light chance, these dark nights are a killer
Cheers

Buy a head torch!