Morris Minor Owners Club

okay so i have just bought new front poly bush set, and starting to put them on. But having a real trouble to remove the toursion bars... can anyone help? am i doing anything wrong?

thanks.<br><br>

I don't think you need to remove the torsion bars ? The bush set can be fitted without doing so - just remove front lower arm and slide the rear one back on the torsion bar (after letting the spring down!) - and then take the eyebolt out of the chassis leg. But having released the front end -it's easy enough to undo the fixing bolts at the rear and remove the bar complete with the rear reaction arm still fitted if you wish to do so.

I kept my torsion bars on. If it's the eye bolt poly bushes you mean, you need to take off your front lower arm, tap the rear arm along the spline (a bit), use the pin (through the eye bolt bushes) by tightening a nut (over a washer) on it to draw out the steel cup inside the rear lower arm, when this pops out you can take off the eye bolt. Once you have done one side, the other side is actually easier.

thats my problem the torsion bar does still seem to be in the way.it is still inside the chassis leg thing?!?! lol
thanks

BMC you beat me to it!

No - it's not - that's the 'steel cup' Dean mentions above that you are seeing. The T bar doesn't reach the eyebolt.

To clarify - knock the arm back far enough to let you remove the pivot from the torsion bar, but NOT all the way off the splines, unless you have some time to spare putting the arm back on in the correct place ;) The eyebolt can be a pig to remove too...

thankyou. i will go and give all this a go!

thanks

Be sure to inspect carefully around the eyebolt - for any cracking in the chassis leg sides. It's also your chance to add a little negative camber (or at least lose the standard positive camber) by putting a 5/16" thick plate between chassis leg and eyebolt head. Remember to re-track the front wheels after all this - even if you don't go for the negative camber. BTW - I say 5/16" plate - but this assumes the suspension geometry was 'ok' in the first place. If not - then that size may not be correct - you should measure the final result and decide if it's ok !! One side may need more/less than the other - the important thing is to end up with them the same - but I would say 5/16" is the most you should add.

thankyou very much! just removed the eye bolt with a little help from a hammer lol

thanks again.

Hope you didn't damage the thread. And if the 'eye' is badly worn -it really needs renewing.

no worries its all fine. it went back on a treat. i shull tackle the other side tomorrow.

You'll do it in half the time, it's so much easier once you know how it's done.

Yes I am trying to replace the bushes as well. Have taken the front lower arm off and as far the rear one do you still leave it attached onto the lower link or undo that?

this negative seems ok, is it really beneficial on a standard set up moggie with the standard saloon rims

Dennis ???? Something missing ?
Sirrom - yes you need to disconnect from everything - but leave the rear part of the arm on the splines of the torsion bar spring - although you may need to slide it back along the splines slightly - don't knock it right off the splines!

lost me !!!!!!!

Dennis Look at your last post in the thread - seems to start in the middle of nowhere?

ah yes got it now

what i meant was is negative camber beneficial to a standard moggie with standard rims

Yes - a little helps! Original car had slightly +ve camber, and even if that is eliminated with wheel bolt upright it will be better. In fact -with wide wheels, negative camber is not such a great idea - and bolt upright at normal ride height will be best.