Morris Minor Owners Club

My plan (if all goes well) is to have about 85 - 90 bhp at the flywheel once all engine mods are completed. What can be done in terms of rear axle location to help to stabilise to handle the power. I will be fitting hardened half shafts but I am thinking back to my Escort days when we used to fit additional location links to fix the axle in place - What is the standard way forward on a Moggie? Anyone have any pics or drawings available pls....

In the 'good old days' anti-tramp bars were often fitted, and a decent set of telescopic dampers mounted VERTICALLY will help too, or you can just fill the lever dampers with more viscous oil. Fitting 7 leaf springs from a Traveller will stiffen up the rear end too, and lessen the risk of tramping, and poly bushes in the spring eyes and damper link rod will all help too. I'm sure Jonathon will be along in a minute with some suggestions. The anti-tramp bars are designed to stop the springs 'winding up' into an S shape - and are mounted in line with the front half of each spring. Of course you can install a fully located axle with all sorts of bars attached - but that would be a custom made exercise. And of course - a limited slip diff would be a great idea - shame they are v expensive!!

Hmmmm, I'm wondering if traveller springs, poly bushes and thick oil in the dampers would do OK for the kind of power I expect to get - Not exactly gonna be tearing up the tarmac

Good starting point and not too expensive or difficult to do.

Depends on how much you want to spend and how you drive your car. 89-90bhp is a good deal of power in a Minor, and you 'will' use it otherwise it was a waste of money in achieving it.
I'd suggest uprating the rear dampers to telescopics, there are several kits on the market, but I'd be tempted not to recommend uprating the original lever arms with thicker oil, simply from a legal point of view.
Poly bushes are also a good idea, but I suggest that you research the market as there are several contenders out there.
The most beneficial locator of the rear axle is a triangulated radius arm kit, and only three suppliers do their own kits ,so again do your homework. The advantage of the latter is that they both stop tramp and locate the axle well reducind any sideward movement.
I prefer to stay with the original springs

All of that lot plus the LSD and 135 tyres and you will be able to leave two black stripes when the lights go green, unlike Bullitt who only left one stripe and had even worse axle tramp than a moggy

Why would there be a 'legal point of view' to increasing the viscosity of damper oil ? There are various grades of oil specifically for dampers on the market - although plain engine oil works fine !

...but you're not a trader making a public recommendation, are you. There are plenty of us who still disagree with you over your (Owen Burton's, anyway) engine oil 'trick', btw.

If I suggested this upgrade through the business, or carried this out in the workshop then I'm seen to be legally responsible should a failure occur to the lever arm damper.
It may well be feasable to upgrade the dampers in the method you deascribe, but I'm afraid it will not be my neck on the block.

Ahh -right - I do understand. It could be a 'legal position ' for you if it somehow went wrong ? However different grades of oil are available off the shelf for this purpose - specifically for upgrading lever arm dampers.
Who is 'Owen Burton' ??

A chap who wrote a book and designed a lot of parts/kits, as you well know. The rules here prevent me from giving my opinion of him.

No - I don't know! Did he 'invent' the idea of putting more viscous oil in dampers ? I don't think so - in fact first ref I have seen of it was 750MC for their racing versions of the Austin 7!

Never seen it in print anywhere else but in his book - and on these pages.

Im not sure about car dampers, but it is a VERY common trick for dialing in a dirtbike's suspension by experimenting with different grade oils.

As for the original post, if you're only trying to combat axle wrap and not handling, then i might suggest a simple set of slapper type traction bars (can be made very cheap, and the rear end doesn't need to be pulled out. I made some for mine, and i get zero axle hop whatsoever. My car lays a pretty good line of rubber with them. The negatives are obviously that they add more unsprung weight, and dont aid in axle location. But hey, its cheap and easy and looks hotrodish (well in America at least).

My car handles pretty decent, 7 leafs and poly bushes makes a big difference.

Thanks Guys - Some good useful stuff coming out in this discussion. I'll look up the radius arm kits as this sounds like a good idea if not too expensive....

Its not, don't worry

Just had a look at some prices and although slightly out of date, seemed reasonable
How do these fit. Is it a DIY proposition or does it need jigs etc for alignment....?

I'd advise against traveller springs, they are very heavy duty compared to the 5 leafs. New 5 leafs are plently stiff enough, besides do you want to stiffen the rear end? It's not conducive to traction with a live axle and will ride horribly.

Well -I wish my Traveller had heavier duty springing at the rear - it bottoms out quite easily and I never carry any rear passengers or much stuff in the back. Traction is fine - and NO axle tramp with the 7 leaf springs. In fact - i'm thinking of doing some leaf swapping with some spare springs I have to make up heavier duty 8 or even 9 leaf springs for my Traveller.

How tall and heavy , did you say you were................