Morris Minor Owners Club

I'm looking to fit one into my 1098 car. Can someone detail what mods I need to do. I've read bits here and bits there about fitting/using flywheels but I'm not sure which ancillaries I need and what mods need to be done. Thanks in advance....

You need to use the Minor flywheel - so it needs to be drilled to suit the Marina 6 bolt crankshaft. I used the Marina flywheel as a drilling guide - bolting the two firmly together and drilling through. then use Minor backplate (check it has clearance on the oil pump - if not, modify the pump till it does !) and all should be well. You will need to fit the front plate from the old 948/1098 engine to get the Minor engine mounts to match up. This of course means pulling the timing chain casing and sprockets off both engines - and then swapping the front plates. You may want to fit a new timing chain and tensioner pad while in there. The heater tap (if fitted) may foul the battery box and/or battery - an easy answer is to eliminate it and simply fit a short stub for the hose. And - the top rad hose will need to be modified to connect the more heavily angled thermostat housing to the rad. You should fit the Minor cooling fan rather than the big noisy marina fan. Carb and exhaust are up to you! Ideally you want the 'big bore' single exhaust manifold or even the twin exhaust manifold - and then a system to match keeping the bore up at a reasonable size right to the back. However - it will run with a standard Minor exhaust - but it will be mor than a bit strangled.

Thanks BMC. That's what I needed.... I'm assuming I would use 1098 starter motor too?

Indeed.

Ta

I have my 1275 on the bench now ready to strip and modify for the Minor, however, it did not come with the flywheel to use as drill jig for the Minor one. Does anyone have a drawing detailing the hole positions or any other solutions for this problem....?

You will just need to either beg/borrow/steal a Marina flywheel - or simply take sizes off the crank flange.

I haven't got the crank out yet but maybe I can mark through from the engine side of the crank onto the flywheel - I don't fancy trying to "measure" it in case I get it wrong

If all else fails - you can borrow mine, but it's heavy and would involve post both ways - so I'm sure you can find one nearer to you! Some have bravely mounted the flywheel using just the two holes in the Minor flywheel that DO line up - the other 4 on the crank are on the same PCD - just spaced round evenly - and the dowel locates in one of the original Minor holes too. If you are good at 'marking out' you can probably work out where the holes need to be drilled. Either that - or find a way to 'transfer' the hole position from crank to flywheel - maybe with paint on the crank flange - then fit and remove flywheel and see if the hole locations can be seen ? I would certainly NOT fancy the 2 bolt idea!!

Thanks Roy. No, I don't fancy the 3 bolt idea either - I'll do it properly one way or another. I was gonna ask if you needed that other guys number but I see you've found it now. I got hold of him during the day, not in the evening. Rich

do not forget to put bolts in the original engine mounts on the engine
also you may need to add 4 mm washer or sinialar to the bendix on the starter moter, depends on what back plate is used

only use the timing cover from the marina engine and take out ll the metal from the trap to aid breathing

you may need to fettle the oil pump hole on a minor back plate as slightly different position
best to use the laser cut back plate from morris minor centre

It's the later oil pumps that are sometimes a bit more bulky - but they can be fettled down to fit the cover. The pump is mounted in excatly the same place on the block. Interested to see the starter bendix mentioned - not heard that before.

Ill be using 1098 backplate, flywheel and starter so I wasn't expecting to have any issues with starter bendix meshing. But, I wil pay attention and report back when I get that far.... Thanks

Me too - but I wonder if the suggestion is that the flywheel will be mounted slightly further away from the starter than in the 1098 ? One of my 1275 engines came with a pre-engaged starter and I was going to give that a try anyway - although I know the gear engages from the other side - the Mini lads seem to get away with it without turning the ring-gear over, which would be the 'proper' modification.

Hmmmm, good point. Mental note made to look closely at this before fitting engine......
What does the reference to "bolts in the engine mounts" mean ?

i had to add thewasher on one of 1275 but can not remeber what back plate it was

i meant the oil pump is larger, not in a diferent place as i said

still better i think to use the laser cut back plate, as the hole for the oil pump is in the right place, and is of course the right thickness .

it is still a worthwhile mod

What do you mean by putting bolts in the engine mounts?

I have 3 different oil pumps (MG Metro cam - peg drive) I can use with the 1275 I am working on just now - will report back on which ones fit with 1098 backplate - and if any don't.
I'm sitting here trying to make a new oil pump/block gasket in between threads!

See - Guys CAN multi task

Interested to see the starter bendix mentioned - not heard that before.

I wasn't expecting to have any issues with starter bendix meshing.

Well Dennis is quite right and it's even mentioned in Owen Burton's manual and that dates back 20 years its not always needed but seems to be more common on Marina units than Midget ones but its easy enough to check before you install the engine.
One other thing the trap on the timing cover will probably need changing to a D section instead of the existing round one to give clearance on the fan.