Morris Minor Owners Club

I have taken my 69 Morris on a road trip and am presently in Germany. See this link if you want to read the story:

http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?47,873467

But that's not the point of this post...

I had about 6 inches of "free play' in the clutch pedal when I started the trip. I now have about 2 inches. Is this simply a signal to adjust the clutch?

I have the Hayne's manual in the car. Is there anything I should be aware of regarding clutch adjustment that is not in the book?

Thank you in advance.

Not sure how you could have started with 6 inches of freeplay, the clutch would never disengage with that kind of free travel. The later 1098 clutch should have one and three quarters inch free play.

Rather than clutch wear, I suspect your clutch relay shaft bushes may be collapsing.

Hmmm...thank you for the fast reply.

I was estimating the six inches (please no jokes here) but it seemed there was quite a bit of travel before the clutch would disengage, and now it it only moves about two inches.

I must have mis-read the manual...I just looked at the Driver's Handbook and it indeed agrees with you, MoggyTech. I thought I read 6 inches before the pedal engaged the clutch.

What exactly is a clutch relay shaft bushing? Is that the same as a pilot or throwout bearing that is included in the clutch kit?

No.it's the bearing/bush that lives in the 'chassis' on the funny shaped arm between it and the gear box, halfway along the linkage between the pedal and the clutch

Either that - or the carbon thrust bearing is wearing at an alarming rate - be sure you don't 'ride' the clutch. Idea is to have your foot on that pedal as little as possible! When stopped - into neutral right away and foot off pedal - never sit at junctions/lights/hold-ups with foot on clutch. As it is now - it sounds about right!

Right, bmc...I never idle in gear, I always start the car with the gearbox in neutral...I treat it the same as a B series engine.

BigG, thanks for the description. I think I have access to a hoist tomorrow so I'll be able to see what you are describing.

Okay, so I feel comfortable with that now. Thank you all.

The wonder is - how did it ever work with 6 ins of free travel? !!!

MattRuch wrote:BigG, thanks for the description. I think I have access to a hoist tomorrow so I'll be able to see what you are describing.

If you're using the hoist to remove the engine/box, you're going to have to take the relay shaft (the funnily shaped bracket I mentioned) off anyway

I suspect he meant hoist to lift the car - for a look underneath.

Hope you get it sorted - I enjoyed the thread on the other forum about your trip.

bmcecosse wrote:I suspect he meant hoist to lift the car - for a look underneath.

Aha - duh@me then

Right...I adjusted the clutch a bit and it's better. I found a horribly worn O/S tie rod end and I'll need to source one and replace.

A follow up question...

What is the name and purpose of the metal wire strand that comes out of the rear of the gearbox, goes through the cross member and is held w/ a threaded fastener?

Several of the strands are frayed.

Thanks again

Gearbox steady wire. It stops the engine moving forwards and smashing into the radiator when you brake hard.

Really...that's it? I love these old cars!

Thank you

Its a washing line for midgets.
Note, the clutch linkage bar underneath should have a lock nut on the adjuster.
Mine didnt and it used to magically undo itself til I fitted one.

err I thought the gearbox steady cable is to stop unwated engein/gearbox movement and so reduce clutch judder

clutch partial bite = engine moves a little thus clutch has less bite = engine relaxes back to position and the cycle repeats (especially in reverse).

The cable damps much of that movement, its not desigend to stop the engine hitting the radiator for which you would have to have pratically no engine mounts at all to get that much movement !!

It's dual purpose -yes it can help with elimination of clutch judder - but i believe real purpose is to hold the engine back under emergency braking. Some have reported fan touching rad - and then investiagtion shows cable broken or missing! It should be 'nipped up slack' - not bow tight!

Errrr - it is, but with the added benefit of protecting the rad. Your engine mounts must be special - on my cars, there's plenty of scope for a fan/rad scenario ;)

on my cars, there's plenty of scope for a fan/rad scenario

I'm inclined to agree as well.