Sinking brake pedal
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Sinking brake pedal
I replaced the M/C for the MOT this year (June). The tester said the brakes were good for a Minor so I was pleased. Yesterday, I jumped in the car for a spin and the brake pedal shot straight down to the floor! After I pumped the pedal a few times I got brakes but the pedal doesn't feel like it has any resistance. I checked the level and its not moved from where I topped it up to. I can't see any leaks anywhere and no obvious signs of a proble. The pedal was firm the last time the car was driven so any ideas whats gone wrong?
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Rob_Jennings
- Minor Addict
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pumping the pedal has to be air in the system
assume one of the wheel cylinders may have given in, or check the flexi hoses at the front or the single one at the rear.
any air in a system that was good would suggest a leak.
assume one of the wheel cylinders may have given in, or check the flexi hoses at the front or the single one at the rear.
any air in a system that was good would suggest a leak.
Rob
Cars: Lizzy 1970 Morris Minor Traveller and Noah 1969 Morris Mini Traveller
Cars: Lizzy 1970 Morris Minor Traveller and Noah 1969 Morris Mini Traveller
Hi Rob. I agree that it has to be air in the system but I have been over everything and there are no leaks. I haven't bled the system yet as I didn't want to introduce and more variables until I found the problem. Do you think it is possible that air may have been trapped somewhere before and has now worked its way into the fluid somehow?
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Rob_Jennings
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no, any air locks result in a soft pedal no matter where they are as they add compressible volume to the whole system.
if there is air there now you have a failure somewhere? if all the wheel cylinders are good with nothing in the drums to indicate a leak then the flexi hoses are likely cause, they can split in all sorts of odd ways (allowing air in with minimal sign of leak, acting as valves if they collapse .....)
if there is air there now you have a failure somewhere? if all the wheel cylinders are good with nothing in the drums to indicate a leak then the flexi hoses are likely cause, they can split in all sorts of odd ways (allowing air in with minimal sign of leak, acting as valves if they collapse .....)
Rob
Cars: Lizzy 1970 Morris Minor Traveller and Noah 1969 Morris Mini Traveller
Cars: Lizzy 1970 Morris Minor Traveller and Noah 1969 Morris Mini Traveller
No servo - just completely standard brakes. Fluid level has definately NOT gone down in the M/C and this was brand new in June from a proper supplier (not off fleebay or autojumble etc...). I need to look closely at the flexi's, as Rob has pointed out. Someone else has told me they had a similar problem with the rear one.... Thanks all. I'll update when I get time to have a proper look.
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Once I have satisfied myself that it's nothing else then yes, I will be approaching the supplier. Just seems strange thought hat it was working fine and has done no more than 200 miles since fitted. I need to get time (probably weekend) to strip and check everything else. Rear cylinders and shoes were all new at the same time as the M/C so I guess front end is suspect but still after a second look just now, I cannot see any leaks. How frustrating !!! 
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I get the same after leaving it for a day or so, in fact I renewed the m/cylinder only to get the same; a couple of pumps and it's ok until the next time, no leaks etc dismantled the 'old' cylinder and everything good, seals and bore. One thing I haven't done is lower the fluid level, looks like I have been running with it at the bottom of the cap, whereas it should be 1/2 inch below, whether it matters I'm not sure!
I don't like 'clamping' flexis - they often start to swell/fail shortly later - just at the clamp position! Better to just pull the wheels off and inspect. However - kennatt does have a good point - if the brakes are badly out of adjustment - then first press of the day will cause the shoes to move up to the drums and can make for a long stroke. The little seal should then hold them in place - and all other strokes should be normal unless the car is left for a while, whereupon the brake shoes will relax back again. So - if the second push is hard - it's maybe just adjustment that's required!
Last edited by bmcecosse on Wed Aug 06, 2008 1:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.



[quote="bmcecosse"]I don't like 'clamping' flexis - done it for years never had a problem it's the first thing a garage does with brake problems there is a special clamping tool they use like a pair of mole grips with a wide type of jaws ,but if you use normal ones and are worried about damaging the pipe just place two strips of hardwood between the jaws,and this will spread the point at which the pipe is closed off you don't need much pressure just nip it up.I'ts without doubt the quickest and most acurate way to isolate a fault
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MoggyTech
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It's a sad fact that the brakes on most cars on the road, are the least likely item to get regular maintenance. Yet they are the most vital component on a car. Even with brake fluid changes every two years, rubber flexi hoses should be replaced every eight years MAXIMUM. Proper hose clamps will not damage a good hose that is fairly new, but they will wreck an older hose that should have been replaced anyway.kennatt wrote:I take on board all that bmc and les says but if the pipes are that old that they can be damaged they should be changed anyway wouldn't you say.
Single circuit brakes, take NO chances. That's why brake parts are among the cheapest bits to buy for most cars.
What I do to minimize fluid loss when repairing brakes, is I made up short pipes with soldered ends, and have old cylinders that are blanked off inside. So depending what I am working on, I can blank off the circuit.
Sinking pedal first thing in the morning is probably just shoes needing adjusted up. The little hat valve in the master cylinder will only hold the 8LBs pressure for a few hours if the car is sitting still.
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