Morris Minor Owners Club

I know that this has been a controvertial subject. I had reason to call in at Millers Oils today and noticed in there shop 3 different Shock Oils. So I duly collected the Data Sheets to share with you.
Shock Oil 22. Is the "light" grade and will provide the softest damping.
Density at 15degC 0.872
Shock Oil 32. Is the "medium"grade and will provide more "sporting"
handling characteristics. Density at 15degC 0.873
Shock Oil 46. Is the heaviest grade and would normally be used for
competition purposes. Density at 15degC 0.878

I always thought there was only one sort. Seems I was wrong.

I just use 10w40 semi synthetic as its what I have spare after changing the oil on my Freelander - works fine for me.....

20w50 for me... left overs from my engine oil change.

Thanks Ian - proves the point I have made for a long long time that different grades of oil can be used to change the damping characteristics. Any 'Mineral' type oil can be used - by all means use Millers although I bet it's not cheap!

Would EP90 gear oil work?

Well - I have used it in my rally Minor days - but i would say it's a bit extreme for a road car. Straight 40 grade oil (not 10W40) would be about the most viscous I suggest for road use. I would say 10W40 would be about standard oil, then 20W50, then straight 30 and then straight 40. The higher figure in the 10W40 etc oils is not important here - that only applies at engine running temperature!

I was thinking about stiffening the front of my Traveller up as a cheaper method than fitting an anti roll bar to counteract the stiff rear springs.
Am I going in the wrong direction??

The better damping makes for a big improvement - and it's easy and inexpensive. It will slow down the rate of roll - but of course not reduce it. Roll bar if you like - but they tend to increase understeer which is hardly what you want! Answer then is some negative camber - to counter the understeer! Biggest flaw in the Minor (after the poor damping) is the miserable narrow standard wheels and the miserable tyres they force you to fit!

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A set of these could help

After I fitted the alloy wheels with 185/60R14 tyres, I lowered the front 16mm, original dampers have the valves removed, and Kayaba Gas dampers fitted. The road holding is awesome. The back end can still step out in the wet, but the front bites nicely into corners, and the steering is lighter!

Don't understand taking the valves out of perfectly good dampers - you should try them back in MT - it will be even better , I promise you!

I'd liken it to having coil overs with torsion bars BM. The idea is to use an improved product instead of an older design. It rather negates the time and effort taken by the likes of Koni, Avo and Spax if you are going to compromise their endeavours with another system.
My view is be commited in your choice and accept either the old or new methods rather than muddle them up together.

I suggest giving it a fair try! My car has both - and it's excellent. The damping is fantastic and the car rides very nicely over humps and dips without hitting the stops. Coil + Torsion could be right for competition work - if a higher spring rate is required - but torsion is fine for a road car. A coil is just a wound up torsion bar anyway!

bmcecosse wrote:Don't understand taking the valves out of perfectly good dampers - you should try them back in MT - it will be even better , I promise you!

I would have concerns for the damper bolts if running oil dampers and gas dampers in tandem. You also have to consider each dampers resistance, and how the resonance would be effected using both systems.

I have tried the original dampers on their own, but got excessive body roll in corners. When I refitted the gas dampers I forgot to take the valves out of the original dampers and the front was so solid, it felt like the fillings in your teeth were about to come out.

Believe me, I've tried several combinations, and different ride heights. The setup as it is now, gives me a balance between road holding, and comfortable ride.

If the tele dampers fit to the original mounting bolts - then yes I would worry. Fillings falling out is about the right damping - only kidding! You've tried it and selected what you like - excellent!

This is all getting too complicated for me. Going back to my original comments about using EP90 in the front dampers, the Traveller is already fitted with 5 1/2 x 13 rims wearing 175 x 13 tyres of dubious origin. It snakes all over the road on the motorway and I am in constant fear of the back end overtaking the front through roundabouts.
My Series MM is completely standard apart from the 155 x 14 Firestones and gets thrown through the corners with no worries, if you've got no acceleration don't slow down!

Utopia is a town with no speed humps!

I suggest the tyres may be faulty! And is the front end tracking set correctly ? Otherwise - it may have worn rubber bushes and/or play in the suspension or steering components. It should track perfectly - just like your other car! Is the rear axle location ok - if it's loose and you have rear end steering - beware!!

Agree with BM give all of the front and rear end suspension components a thorough check also check the front hubs for play.
Where abouts are you based, if you are near us, do feel free to drop in and we'll have a quick look over it.

I'm a bit of a journey from you in Reading but thanks for the offer. There are a few unhealthy clunking noises from the left side, trouble is I can't it see too clearly on axle stands because of the 321 exhaust system so I will have to get it put on a lift.

Almost certainly the rubbers in the eye-bolt have disintegrated!