Morris Minor Owners Club

Still trying to get the bushes done at the front end.....


Got the eyebolt bushes that I'm trying to do and I cannot work out for the life of me how to do them, short of removing the torsion bar.

This all refers to drivers side, I have the joy of the passenger side still to do...


I've removed the bottom arm from the trunnion (the front part is completely removed and the back is still on the torsion bar) Now, from what it seems the bushes are in the eyebolt itself which appears to be bolted through the chassis leg (it seems like the nut on the other end is some weird size

Is there anyway I can get this done without pulling the torsion bar out?

HELP!





I'm about to go and make some lunch and consider my options. Hopefully someone will be able to help in the meantime!

You should be able to tap the rear arm back along the splines on the torsion bar so it clears the eyebolt and pin with a bit of gentle bending. Then the pin and bushes can be wriggled/prised/hammered out -backwards I think, it's been a while since I did it. The eyebolt stays put.
Either mark the arm and torsion bar or measure the height off the ground of the outer end of the arm before you tap it back as if it goes back far enough it comes off the splines.

if it has seized on the splins use plenty of penetrating oil & leave for a few hours or overnight to soak in then persuade it with the tapping stick

If lucky - that pin should come loose from the torsion bar - but it would be wise to remove the eye-bolt anyway and carefully inspect the chassis leg for any cracking, and to rust treat/inject cavity wax. The eye bolt may also be badly worn if it's been running with NO bushes for a while !

best to remove the torsion bar anyway...
When it's off you can apply penetrating oil and big hammer to make sure the arms are free to move on the splines. If they are rusted solid, they might not be well lined up for the bushes and that can cause premature bush failure (front or rear eyebolt bush flange will get overloaded)

Not to mention the cupped washer that is pressed into the rear leg. I too work the front of the torsion bar because the arm at the cross member is usually well rusted on. However, this cupped washer that is bolted to the fulcrum pin can be very stubborn with just the use of a hammer. It really is intended to be pressed in, which is why the official method is working at the cross member end.
For disassembly you need to hit the rear leg very hard and square to break this washer loose.