Morris Minor Owners Club

Good evening all,

I've got a bit of a stupid question, I'm currently taking out the engine with the gearbox attached so's I can get at the clutch and sort it out.

Problem is I can't see how the propshaft comes away from the gearbox, it says in my manual about flanges self locking nuts and sliding back somehow but I can't for the life of me figure it out or see what it means(there's never any pictures ). I've only got about 4 more things to detach before I have the engine out for the first time since I've owned the car, so near yet so far and the light is failing!


Any help would be much appreciated


All the best

Dan

Dan I think the manual is saying to drop the prop off completely. Thats the 4 nuts and bolts attaching it to the rear axle then slide the whole prop backwards and it should pop off the splines at the gearbox end.

PS mark where the prop is at the rear end before you split it from the axle.

Ah ok I'll go give it a whirl

Not to be cheeky but I also can't see how to remove the bit of the clutch linkage with the spring on it which connects to the pedal. I've taken off the split pin but I can't see how to get the bar clear of the chassis. Do I have to remove that entire side panel which it connects to?

Thanks for the help I will have this engine out by night fall!

I've undone the bolts on the axle, do I have to give the propshaft a bit of a knock to drop it?

TheLaird wrote:I've undone the bolts on the axle, do I have to give the propshaft a bit of a knock to drop it?

There is a small lip behind the rear flange, so with the nuts and bolts removed, slide the shaft forward slightly and it will drop, then slide it back out of the gearbox tail.

Clutch linkage needs to be removed by removing the relay shaft bearing housing from the chassis, and sliding the lot backwards, watch out for the tufnell bearing coming out at the gearbox end.

do I have to give the propshaft a bit of a knock to drop it?

yes - sometimes needs a bit of assistance to part the 4 bolt flange - don't try driving it with the engine, beaause as soon as it comes free it will flap about.

Clutch linkage needs to be removed by removing the relay shaft bearing housing from the chassis

When the bolts are out of the chassis, you can slide the spacer plate out from next to the chassis. If I remember correctly this gives enough room so that when you squash it against the spring you can slide the bearing housing out of the way.

rayofleamington wrote: When the bolts are out of the chassis, you can slide the spacer plate out from next to the chassis.

Spacer plate!?

What's one of them then, and should I have one on the pickup?

Don't know about the pick up, but the saloons have a plate under the housing that bolts to the chassis leg.
It's possible you have one but didn't recognise it as a seperate plate as the profile matches the housing. It's also possible that you don't have one!

Hello Dan,

when you come to slide the propellor shaft from the gearbox, (it just pulls out), there will probably be oil as well. It is worth draining the gearbox first as it minimises a mess.

Alec

Thanks for all the invaluable advice, I finally got the engine and box out late saturday night and managed to fit the new clutch, gearbox and engine mounts and have it all back together by quarter to 12 last night. It only took me 22 hours in total.... now I've had to promise not to work on the car at all next weekend as my girlfriend's fast becoming a Minor widow ;)

Gah, I just noticed in my tired state last night I put some 80w90 into the gear box. Can I get away with this or should I drain and refill with something more suitable? It never ends haha ( I'm crying on the inside).

I think you should change it ASAP because there's allegedly some chemical in hypoid oil that dissolves the bushes in the gearbox.

Cheers I thought that was the case, ah well you can always live in hope
Right I shall pop out now and get the correct oil!

Yes - change it right away - and then change it again after 100 miles to make sure all the hypoid is washed out!! It does indeed dissolve brass / bronze bits.

Can I get away with this or should I drain and refill with something more suitable?

The thicker oil stops the lubriation flow working properly - the gear teeth act like pumps to make the oil flow round the gearbox and reach bearings etc... Using a thicker oil in a gearbox is often a quick way to shorten its life
The EP oils will leach some of the materials from soft metal alloys, however this is not a quick reaction. I would still follow BMC's advice about changing it again after early running, as this will also help clear out any muck. It's worth to do this on unknown engines too as it can reduce the problems caused by any previous lack of servicing.

If hypoid is used in an engine (to try to quieten bearing noise) it's amazing how it leaches the bronze out of the bearing shells!