Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi Guys

I need to replace my rear springs on the trav because they are U/S
Given the most likely scenario what am I going to need to buy?

I have the springs and bushes but thats all so far

Cheers

I would get 4 new U Bolts as these are often corroded badly, same goes for the nuts that fix onto the U Bolts. Also top and bottom spring rubber pads will most likely be needed. Make sure bump stops are in decent condition and not peeling away from the backing plate, replace if they are, or of they are missing, as the backing plates protect the axle casing to some degree, from the chafing action of U Bolts, which can wear a hole in the axle casing.

The metal plates and pins for the front mounts. I don't care what anyone says, those pins don't just tap out, and hacking the small bolts off to remove the plate complete with pin worked better for me!

Just thinking about it makes me almost pleased to have sacrificed any form of life or fiscal ability to resuce the pickup, as the front mounts are actually sensibly designed!

You'll need to make a key for the front pin. A bit like an angle grinder one with two pins to fit. I've lost the one I made out of a strip of metal and two M4 nuts and bolts.

Popped my springs the other evening (oooh errr),
They had the impression of not being off for 'quite some time' if ever.

Front pins looked to be a bit stubborn, so stopped, thought about it, then after slackening the nuts, gave the pin a good 60 secs of blowlampery at both ends.

Then with a suitable drift (oh ok - old socket and extension) and Mr club hammer, the pins did indeed 'tap' out.

The plate on the front hanger must be removed with the pin. In order to install the bushings, the removal of the plate provides a hole for the bushing. A C clamp is better than a hammer for breaking the adhesion between the rubber and the rust.

Um, the pin is the same diameter as the hole in the front plate - well mine were, so the plates stayed in place.

If you have a suitable clamp or press and can wangle it under the car and get it to stay in place while you apply enough torque to push the pin, then fantastic!

With toasted, chewy rubber it all moved without excessive beating.

I'm sorry, my memory failed me. The C clamp will not work. A little hammering and prying under the plate does the trick. I don't remember if the bushing will fit through the hole of the pin if not you need the larger diameter of the hole created by the plate removal. In any case there needs to be a good interference fit between the pin and the plate and that is best done in a press. If the pin slips in easily, it's too loose.
I do remember the job was a lot easier with the plate removal including fiddling with the two bolts.

If you use Polys you can slide the bushes into the spring and just slip it all back in (lashings of white grease though).

The one I keep forgetting is the rubber bush that the shocks pin needs.

Also now would be a good time to change Handbrake cables if required.

Hi all,

Replacing my rear springs, great fun getting the old ones off, similar stories to above.. ha ha!!!! Anyway my question is, do I need to do anything with the new leaf springs... ie lubricate them? I've heard stories that they can creak under driving conditions and I don't want this to happen if it can be avoided.

Thanks again

Dean

Greasing springs. Hmmm, various trains of thought on this. Some people say that they should be left dry, as the friction helps stiffen them up. Rolls Royce didn't leave them dry. They greased them and put leather gaiters on to keep road dirt out.
Personally I have fitted an extra leave (to compensate for any loss of friction when geased) then greased between each leaf. Bolted together and then wrapped in Denso tape. Finally using a layer of Clingfilm to stop me getting all blathered up when fitting the springs. Another thing I did was to radius the top edge of each leaf, because if you look at a s/hand spring you will see where the leaf below has worn a sizeable groove in the bottom of the leaf above, as the spring flexes.