Morris Minor Owners Club

In the process of installing a stereo (well, I've got the bits, and will be putting it in when I get the car back from her MOT... still no news on that front...) and have got an under-dash case to house it, the intention being to sling it to the right of the driver... so: should I secure it with dinky littlle 6mm bolts, or with self-tapping screws? Or by some other method?

(I think of this as an electrical question, at least - I suppose it's probably a matter of taste: quite mechanical in a way!)

thanks

Wiglaf

I don't like using self-tappers into sheet metal so I would use small nyloc nuts with suitable screws.

theres quite a few holes under there already so you might be able to find somthing. It could be worth using a "buffer" that will absorb some of the vibration like some fibreboard bolted to the underside of the dash, and then the cage screwed into that.
If your using optical storage (cd/dvd/MD) then it may help reduce skipping.

Mine doesn't skip at all - I think it must have a long anti-skip buffer.

modern ones are pretty resistant so its probably overkill in all fairness.

has anyone thought of installing a CD changer in the boot to that the cartridge pops up through the boot floor vertically. Could be made quide discrete!

I've not used a radio casing at all. I've used those little L shaped mending plates from hardware shops. The sides of the radio should have threaded holes which will take M5 bolts (I used allen head bolts for securing bicycle bottle cages/mudguards). Finding/drilling holes on the underside of the dash can be tricky if you're not a contortionist but apart from that it's very easy to set it up. You could as suggested use rubber buffers to reduce shock. slip them between the brackets and the dash underside. This will also overcome the problem on some units where the lip on the front of the dash makes removal of the radio front difficult.

I've got a "proper" DIN case to fit under the dash, but given the main securing for the stereo then being it's front edge and some bent tabs on the sleeve, and the bulkiness of the whole thing compared to the stereo inside it, I think I might pick up some angle brackers to try first at the same time as bolts to secure it... thanks for the advice.

While I'm here, let me get this absolutely straight: the negative wire just goes to the chassis of the car to complete the circuit by letting the power find its own way home to the battery? Or have I misunderstoof somewhere along the line?

If so, I assume that either of the following would work:

While I'm here, let me get this absolutely straight: the negative wire just goes to the chassis of the car to complete the circuit by letting the power find its own way home to the battery? Or have I misunderstoof somewhere along the line?

Yes - but only if the car has been converted to negative earth. But that's easy to check by looking at the battery and earth cable.

spot on. quite often there are interchangeable wires on red and yellow for vw fitment but if they are swapped then you can just return them to continuous.
Bear in mind that there is usually a maximum depth stamped on the side for the screw holes on the side.

Indeed: 8mm... so when you've got 2mm thick brackets, 10mm bolts and skinny li'le washers...
And the to-dash bolts? The hardware shop only had the right size in self-tapping, so it will be self-tapped *and* nyloc nuts: hopefully shouldn't go anywhere!
Why, I'm almost feeling confident. Updates detailing the diaster due tomorrow, then!

Why, I'm almost feeling confident

DANGER DANGER! FAILURE IMMINANT!

... and having got the car back from MOT and repairs, while the garage "couldn't find any sign of a leak on the fuel pump", at the end of the 20 mile trip home, it is more-or-less gushing from the bottom of it... stereo budget redirected to a new fuel pump, plans put on hold for a month or two. Bummer.

On the plus side, picking up a new bulkhead rubber at the same time tips it into free next day delivery so I'll definitely be able to get it sorted in time to go down to the girlfriend's next weekend without leaving half my petrol on the road beneath me...

wiglaf wrote:...without leaving half my petrol on the road beneath me...

Or dripping onto your red hot exhaust pipe!!

The pump probably just wants the filter nut tightening up, or perhaps a new gasket. I doubt the casing will have cracked.

plans put on hold for a month or two

Not to worry. gives me a bit of time to get some photos of Alberts installation for you.

Thanks chaps - nuts and gaskets have been checked: tightening the one underneath by the leak seems to have bust something, and made things worse... although "tighten the nearest screw, especially if its the one at the bottom" was the garage's instruction if it "came back". Not too impressed by their inability to find it themselves, mind - it's pretty obvious! Plan is to get a new one in so that I'm back on the road before disassembling/mending the old one for a working spare if I can.

I can see myself saying "I'll fix that!" and then failing with too little time left to put in a replacement before 9am next friday - I have to get down to Silfest direct from work that night. And spending more at the time because of paying £parts+delivery, then £pump rather than just £pump. Oh, and looking at a cut-out magazine article in one of the manuals that came with the car, I suspect a previous owner has done a home repair job on the current pump before.

And back on topic, the chance to see others' installations will be much appreciated - there was an old thread asking for such things, but more-or-less unanswered... those Alex posted recently were handy in thinking about under-dash arrangements.

I think it's worth carrying a spare known-good pump in the boot, especially if you're going on any long trips. I would get the original electromechanical type rather than the electronic type if you can because at least you can easily service those when they go wrong.