Morris Minor Owners Club

often seen loctite advised as a way of making nuts and bolts stay where they are wanted. Not used it myself, being a novice in this crazy game ("Mornington Crescent!" )

when you want to undo the nut or bolt, does the loctite pose a problem?

grateful for advice

wibble xx

No problem - a little force breaks the seal easily - but vibration won't do so. Nut and bolt must be clean and oil free for loctite to work. It's good.

Not in my experience. Threadlock is supposed to stop the bolt vibrating loose rather than gluing it solid.

Thank you for explaining that to me guys - always wondered how this worked!

So what do you do if you get oil on the nut? like many of mine have got?

wibble xx

Threadlock gets my vote

Different product, same general idea?

Loctite Studlock 270 is what I have used and been very pleased with it - I last used it a few weeks ago on my main bearing and big end caps. I originally locked these fixings up many years ago and when I took them apart recently they actually unwound the main bearing studs, but a little application of heat (no more than 250c) breaks the bond down if required. Verdict - good stuff (threads need to be clean)

wibble_puppy wrote:So what do you do if you get oil on the nut? like many of mine have got

Wash it with white spirit and an old paintbrush/toothbrush.

wibble_puppy wrote:Different product, same general idea?

I think threadlock is a generic term while Loctite is the best known brand name manufacturer. There's actually a confusingly large number of different types of threadlock - I just use the 'general purpose' stuff.

Loctite make a whole range - possibly thousands of diffrent products - threadlock grade will be fine. And yes - you must degrease the parts for good success - I suggest celly thinners or Poundland aerosol carb cleaner are much better than white spirit which leaves an oily film.

bmcecosse wrote:And yes - you must degrease the parts for good success - I suggest celly thinners or Poundland aerosol carb cleaner are much better than white spirit which leaves an oily film.

White spirit works fine - I've degreased hundreds (maybe thousands) of parts in it. Cellulose thinners will work but it is harsher, more expensive, and more likely to irritate your lungs/skin. What doesn't work is meths - I've tried it a couple of times when I've run out of white spirit and it just won't dissolve the grease.

But these days some 'white spirit' is nothing more than light kerosene - it's a very loose term and can mean almost anything. But yes - it will degrease parts - but not completely.

Cellulose thinners acts as an accelerant . Loctite marketed an accerant that was virtually thinners . Loctite can be had in all grades from High temp high strength to easy break regular maintainence grade. I forget all the numbers now . I expect if you google it you will get all the info or ask your supplier.
Note though, loctite will cause plastics to deteriorate and also does not work on stainless steel.

thanks, ian-s! bought me some loctite today in Namrick, I think it was number 245 or something like that?

So which fixings does one put it on? not all of them, I presume?

wibble

Never heard of it 'not working' on stainles steel ! It's anaerobic - ie - it sets solid whenever there is a lack of oxygen. The type of steel makes no odds.

My car is held together with Loctite (various grades). It is fantastic stuff. Throw away all those useless spring washers and use some Loctite.

I use 245 on threads and 638 to hold in bearings. The 638 is great as it means you dont need any mechanical means of holding bearings in.

It works on all metals. A lot of my applications are stainless and aluminium and both are fine..