Morris Minor Owners Club

My name is Matt and I've acquired a 1969 Minor. I live in Weeting, Norfolk and my main passion is MGs, but I wanted a Moggie so that I can take the family with me! This is my first Morris. The car appears to be very original and complete and is a pleasure to drive.

If interested, more details on my car can be seen here:

http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?47,798735

May I ask a few questions?

Who are the best suppliers for parts?

Are there any Morris enthusiasts near me?

Are there any local Morris clubs near me?

Finally, a tech question. I've read some well-written posts on this site on the topic, but I'd appreciate any words on this.

The brakes and wheel cylinders and lines were replaced by the PO one month ago. I have found the pedal will sink slowly to the floor with steady, firm pressure. I see no leaks anywhere. I have bled the brakes twice yesterday with minimal effect (but not the way that I read in a posting that says the brakes need to be removed...I don't quite have my head around that yet).

I have a Haynes manual and viewed some postings here and it seems that the M/C replacement is a bit of an involved job. Are there any postings or websites that have pictures and guidance detailing the process?

MattRuch wrote:My name is Matt and I've acquired a 1969 Minor. I live in Weeting, Norfolk and my main passion is MGs, but I wanted a Moggie so that I can take the family with me! This is my first Morris. The car appears to be very original and complete and is a pleasure to drive.

Hi Matt, welcome to the forum.

http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?47,798735

I think the grille should be Old English White with a chrome surround.

Who are the best suppliers for parts?

Take a look here: http://mog.myfreeforum.org/forum28.php

Personally I use ESM for most things.

Are there any local Morris clubs near me?

Try here: http://www.mmoc.org.uk/modules.php?op=m ... &sid=area2

The brakes and wheel cylinders and lines were replaced by the PO one month ago. I have found the pedal will sink slowly to the floor with steady, firm pressure.

If the fluid level isn't going down I'm pretty sure that will be the master cylinder.

(but not the way that I read in a posting that says the brakes need to be removed...I don't quite have my head around that yet).

I don't understand that either...

I have a Haynes manual and viewed some postings here and it seems that the M/C replacement is a bit of an involved job. Are there any postings or websites that have pictures and guidance detailing the process?

A few tips:
* It's possible to lever the torsion bar out of the way enough to get to the bolts rather than removing it like the manual says.
* It is usually best to replace the master cylinder with a new one rather than trying to refurbish it with new seals.
* If you have disc brakes fitted you will need to dismantle the new master cylinder and remove the seal that looks like a little top hat. This seal retains a small amount pressure in the system when you let go of the pedal which helps keep the shoes in a drum brake close to the drum, but causes disc brakes to drag and wear out.
* Some people recommend putting the bolts back in the wrong way round so the next time you do it you won't need to lever the torsion bar out of the way. Personally I don't think this is a good idea because it can lead to the bar catching on the end of the bolt.
* If you disconnect the rear brake pipe at the flexible hose you can pull it forward which makes getting access to the union at the back of the master cylinder a bit easier.
* Soak everything in Plus Gas (penetrating oil) before you start.
* If the brake pipes look rusty, consider getting new brake pipes at the same time as the cylinder in case the old ones snap when you try to undo them.

Welcome. If the pedal sinks with no obvious leak then i think you will find
it is leaking from the Master cylinder into the chassis leg IF THE LEVEL
KEEPS NEEDING A TOP UP. If the level isn't dropping then the fluid is passing the piston seal inside the MC and returning to the reservoir.
Get a nice new one and keep safe.

Thank you for that thoughtful and well-written reply, Alex.

I looked at the ESM website and I'm happy with their prices, but that generated two more questions. I'd be pleased to take a few more minutes of your time...

This webpage:

http://morrisminorspares.co.uk/shop/ind ... 6be2504740

It lists two different M/Cs. How do I determine which one I have? The car is a 1969 w/1098 cc engine.

What other bits would be helpful to have on hand before I start? Fir example, if part "x" usually breaks on disassembly or fasteners "y" usually are knackered and hard to remove and usually break on removal, I'd really like to have them delivered with the M/C.

Thank you as well, Willie...sound advice.

PS It's quite amusing to be referred to as a "Newbie"

MattRuch wrote:It lists two different M/Cs. How do I determine which one I have? The car is a 1969 w/1098 cc engine.

Both are correct for a late car - they changed the bore diameter slightly when they went from 7" front brakes to 8" but the early style for pre-1962 cars is a bit harder to find. The more expensive one is a 'genuine' part and the other is a 'pattern' part. I'm not sure how much difference that makes these days. They are probably both OK - the choice is up to you.

What other bits would be helpful to have on hand before I start? Fir example, if part "x" usually breaks on disassembly or fasteners "y" usually are knackered and hard to remove and usually break on removal, I'd really like to have them delivered with the M/C.

I would get a new pair of bolts, two new copper washers (large and small), and you might consider getting a new push rod because they sometimes turn out to be bent. Hopefully you won't need a new banjo and bolt.

The 'newbie' thing just means you haven't posted many comments on the message board yet - it isn't meant to imply you are new to Minors or new to working cars or anything like that.

I ordered all the suggested items listed above throgh ESM. I did go with the genine M/C.

Many thanks

Matt

But do compare cost/quality with Bull Motif for supplies - there have been some problems reported with parts recently.