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Timing replacement article in latest Minor Matters

Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 5:08 pm
by youngun
I was idly flicking through the latest copy of MM the other day, and came across the article detailing how to replace the timing chain.
Now I would like to see what everyones opinion's are on the methods specified to remove the crank dog.
I remember removing mine, it was covered in a thick layer of oily grime and ooze, and one tap with a hammer on a good fitting spanner and off it came. The methods of removal described in the article seem very extreme! I agree with putting on the handbrake and having it in 4th gear (if your doing it "in situ"), but the idea of using 3 FOOT extension bar on this relatively small thread with the car in gear and locked solid! This is surely going to end in bad news? Also i think the idea of soaking it in WD40 and leaving for "some time" is annoyingly vague! How long is some time?
I would suggest using a chain wrench on the pulley to lock the engine, how much is a pulley if you ruin it compared to a layshaft in a gearbox?

Rant over!

YG

Re: Timing replacement article in latest Minor Matters

Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 5:56 pm
by alex_holden
youngun wrote:I would suggest using a chain wrench on the pulley to lock the engine, how much is a pulley if you ruin it compared to a layshaft in a gearbox?
I think that would be quite likely to damage the pulley. The transmission is built to handle far more torque than the fanbelt. If you have it in fourth gear you can't damage the layshaft because the input shaft is linked directly to the mainshaft.

pulley

Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 5:57 pm
by Willie
I see your point but some people have been driven to distraction by really obstinate pulley nuts! When I have a really stubborn one I locked the starter ring teeth with a stout screwdriver which didn't strain the gearbox etc.

Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 6:48 pm
by bigginger
I can't see what the problem is, but then I don't think of the thread as a 'relatively small' one. I reckon if you ever have to remove one that doesn't want to shift, you'll change your mind too. I'd also add that the best method is to place a spanner between the dog and the chassis leg and turn the engine over, but if it isn't in the car, an extension bar is your friend

Posted: Fri May 16, 2008 12:50 am
by bmcecosse
Yes - any advice to use an extension bar etc is poor. The wind-up in the transmission will soon take up all the movement space for that bar. The starter method is by far the least intrusive and it works. Knock back the lock washer (although it does v little) and mount a wrench on the dog and resting on the nearside chassis leg - and crank the starter (plugs out). It works. Also - WD40 is is NOT a penetrating oil - far better to use Plus Gas or similar although in this case it's unlikely to be an issue.

Posted: Fri May 16, 2008 4:53 pm
by youngun
I see i have a bit of opposition....still thats what you get for throwing in your own pennys worth!
I have a very cautious approach when removing stuck stuff, and I just thought the idea of excessive leverage going through an engine and gearbox which is all locked up seemed a bit dodgy. To be annoying i also dont like the idea of sticking a screwdriver in the flywheel.......1 you risk ruining your screwdriver and 2 you risk ruining the ring gear!

Posted: Fri May 16, 2008 5:41 pm
by bmcecosse
You are right to be cautious - the lever idea is not good advice.

Posted: Sat May 17, 2008 12:51 am
by rayofleamington
i also dont like the idea of sticking a screwdriver in the flywheel.......1 you risk ruining your screwdriver and 2 you risk ruining the ring gear
The ring gear takes 1000 times more abuse from the starter motor and survives.

The first time I had to remove a Minor crank dog I had the car in 4th with the handbrake on, and bricks in front of the rear wheels and the car still moved! That was 17 years ago and I can still remember the frustration - In the end I got my dad to sit in the car and press the brakes whilst I levered and hammered on the end of a 3 foot extension before it finally came free.
The first one was by far the hardest one I've come across but none have been very easy, even when locking the flywheel with a car tyre lever.

I have since learnt the excellent tip to use the starter motor (via this forum) and have used it 3 times. It's worked perfectly every time and I really really wish someone told me the tip 17 years ago!

Posted: Sat Jun 07, 2008 1:54 pm
by nick69
I have this problem of removing the crank nut. The engine is on a stand and the flywheel is locked but for love nor money it wont shift!!!!

Any advice??

Posted: Sat Jun 07, 2008 3:17 pm
by bigginger
For once, the 'bigger hammer' saw rings true...
a

Posted: Sat Jun 07, 2008 3:22 pm
by nick69
LOL your right I got my half club hammer on the job and it came off after a few whacks!!!!

Posted: Sat Jun 07, 2008 3:32 pm
by alex_holden
:lol:

Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2008 7:26 pm
by MGFmad
bigginger wrote:I can't see what the problem is, but then I don't think of the thread as a 'relatively small' one. I reckon if you ever have to remove one that doesn't want to shift, you'll change your mind too. I'd also add that the best method is to place a spanner between the dog and the chassis leg and turn the engine over, but if it isn't in the car, an extension bar is your friend
A great tip, I used the spanner on the chassis leg to get access to my timing chain today - so easy to do.

Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2008 8:02 pm
by bigginger
:D Useful, innit