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Re- Chroming vs. New Parts

Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 3:14 pm
by bloodyank
I'm sure it depends to a great deal on the part in question, but is there a rule of thumb, or a dollar number at which it's better to have a given part re-chromed or to buy new?
Thanks-
Dave

Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 3:17 pm
by bigginger
As I said in the other place :D

Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 4:58 pm
by bmcecosse
Availablity of good new parts - availablity of good rechroming near you - and condition of the part to be re-chromed all come into it! For most Minor parts i would say new parts are pretty much available - however the chroming may not be as good as original parts and they will need 'looking after' !

Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 6:10 pm
by aupickup
new repro chrome parts are absolute rubbish and they dont fit very well either

best to have original parts re chromed, at least then you know they fit

chroming

Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 7:44 pm
by Willie
Chromium plate is porous therefore what is underneath it is vitally important. The original items were of reasonable quality but most of the modern stuff is not! Good chrome has a layer of nickel underneath it I
believe and the very best would be on Brass. (no chance these days).
I have used modern chromed MG grills and they go rusty within 3 months. The plating on my replacement Minor bumper blades started to peel off too so, if possible, use original old stock.

Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 8:54 pm
by bmcecosse
I had new rear bumpers for my Traveller about 6 years ago from BM. I keep them well covered in 'rub on' wax polish - and they are fine !

Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 9:43 pm
by youngun
I had the same problem when restoring my Yamaha last year, i did an experiment where i bought a reproduction rear mudguard (not a cheap one at that) and had the front one re-chromed. The front one was copper plated then chromed. After 6 months of daily useage, the repro rear one was shot to hell, the spot welds had also unwelded themselves......the rechromed one was still spotless!

Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 10:59 pm
by dp
Wouldn't quite look as original but I wonder if one of the manufacturers would consider bunging some stainless steel in the pressings of, for example, bumper blades.

Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 2:46 pm
by MARKH
SAME OLD STORY. YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR.
IF YOU START OFF WITH GOOD METAL, YOU HAVE IT PROPERLY TREATED AND PLATED THEN YOU HAVE A GOOD RESULT.
IF YOU START OFF WITH ****, HAVE IT TREATED LIKE ****, THEN YOU GET ****, IT'L LOOK GREAT FOR A COUPLE OF MONTHS, THEN IT'LL LOOK LIKE **** AGAIN.
BEEN THERE....DONE IT....LEARNED A LESSON.

Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 7:02 pm
by Vikki
what wax polish do you use on them? is it generic stuff? ive just invested in new chrome... well everything, i didnt know chrome pitted so fast i thought id get ten years or so out of it. yes i am totally clueless!!! (my mogs my first car, can you tell?) would like to keep my car looking shiny for as long as pos.

Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 8:44 am
by Kevin
Hi Vikki just use a good quality wax polish on the chrome and repeat often dont use a chrome polish as they tend to be abrasive and dont use the minute waxes as they are just a quick treatment and dont last. If you haven't fitted it yet also treat the rear of bumbers and overriders (where you dont normally see) with a galvanising paint or similar, I just hope you got the better quality chrome rather than the cheapest.

Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 7:28 pm
by aupickup
wax is a good idea , but make sure it contains bees wax