Morris Minor Owners Club

Half way through my night school welding course, need to buy a welder now to get practising at home. Haven't got a massive budget. Anyone, got any recommendations? The SIP had a very good spec for the money (£220) but checked out some welding forums and there were reported problems with the wire feed. Most people seemed to be recommending Clarke.

Yes the SIP can have wire feed problems. Can't really recommend any particular brand, just specs. 30 to 150 AMPS and capable of doing gasless or Co2/Argon Gas, and able to run off 13 amp single phase domestic supply.

I'd recommend the Clarke WAY more strongly than the SIP for reliability. I've sworn to never get another SIP, but the Clarke has kept going far longer than them

I,ve got a Clarke 205TE which has worked faultlessly through many jobs including building a horsebox. They have an extensive range and if you buy from Machine Mart ask about VAT free days, they have them about four times a year (invitation only) and as the name suggests you save 17.5% .

I've had a Clark 150TE which has been brilliant for 4 or 5 years now. It only cost a couple of hundred quid but it welds really well (provided the person using it- me- is feeling competent at the time). I have used many more professional models at college- big ESAB welders for example and I'd rather use the Clark over most of them (apart from 1 ESAB thats a good one).

You can get consummables from Machine Mart easily- i changed the brass torch swan kneck as the CO2 holes were starting to wear, but the welder was still going.

Good bit of kit, I would definitely buy a Clarke again.

I've had problems with an ESAB welder too, including the wire speed controller packing in before I'd even used it to weld. I'll get it running one day though - last one (this one was an insurance replacement) was OK

I think it's useful to get a decent sized one also, and defo fan cooled. Mine is a little 90Amp migmate.

It gives decent enough results, quite tidy really considering it's so cheap, but on long welds the thermal cut out has stopped it on a number of occassions.

Not too bad if you're only doing a little bit or have large gaps, but a real PITA if you're in the middle of a lot of seam welding.

I've done several sills, floors and patches with it, and it's been OK, but if I tackled another big job, I'd consider upgrading.

Andrew

Another vote for Clarke. I have a 160EN-T which takes some abuse from time to time !

Over um 5 years or so has just needed the swan neck replacing as the thread the tips fit in eventually wear.

I have a Sealey 180 Supermig. Its really good for both intricate work and the odd bit of heavy stuff. Might a bit out of price range though. However the lower amp sealeys such as the 130 or 150 are very good welders, no problems as such that ive heard of.

YG

I have had my Clarke 130 TE Turbo for about 15/16 years with no trouble what so ever (touch wood!) The only part I have replaced is the tips, wire and gas - recommended

I use a clarke 100E had it about 14 years ive never had a thermal cut out & only had to replace consumable items can recommend

Many thanks guys, Clarke it is then! Has anyone used 'No Gas'? It seems you can convert them to use gas by buying a regulator, gas bottle and non-fluxed wire and they are marketed as 'dual purpose'. Not much in the cost and thought it might give me more options.

I agree about The SIP having wire feed problems - that's excatly what's wrong with mine, but I suspect it's because I'm using a huge reel of wire. If I 'unreel' some wire - it feeds fine until the slack is taken up and the drive has to start tugging at the reel. Has anyone tried knurling the feed drive wheel to stop it slipping on the wire ?

I read somewhere that a knurled drive wheel would roughen the surface of the wire and increase friction in the sleeve, making drive problems worse rather than better.

Me too - one of the probs of having the feed too tight on the Clarke. Doesn't the SIP have a knurled wheel anyway? I can't remember
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BMC, the tension on the coil of wire is adjustable via the spring and knurled bolt that holds it on the SIP and I have mine set as slack as I can get it without the roll uncoiling on its own. I only use small rolls, although I regret this after running out mid-project last week!

If I have it too tight, exactly what you've described happens, it seems the feed motor isn't really up to the job of uncoiling the wire. Mine does have a knurled wheel, but only for one of the sizes, IIRC it's the 0.8mm one, I think the 0.6mm one is smooth.

I've never managed to set it so tight that it marked the wire, I expect that would exacerbate feed problems.

For all it's foibles, I've had reasonable reslts with a 90amp SIP, maybe I'm just lucky.

Andrew

Thanks lads - my SIP works very well and I can run a very nice bead with it - as long as the wire comes through smoothly! The large reel is obviously my downfall - but of course I threw away the old empty small reel. Guess I will have to buy a small roll of wire. The feed roll I have is smooth - with a shallow groove, and the tension roll sits on top - I have boosted the tension on that and it's slightly better, but when welding I can see the wire feed is not constant, the glowing tip can be seen moving backwards and forwards which of course spoils the weld pool. Yes I agree knurled roll may just make things worse - my problem really is of my own making using the large roll of wire. Fortunately I have oxy-acet welding gear (and stick and spot welder) so I'm not stuck yet!

Could you knock up a new reel holder that runs on an old wheel bearing or something so it turns easier?

I use an SIP handymig gasless. It suffers from terrible wire feed problems with SIP 0.8mm flux cored wire.
However I bought some power craft 0.9mm flux cored wire from ALDI and changed the tip to a 0.9mm one, it now works a treat and the wire was cheaper too. When Aldi do their welders again this year I will be stocking up on the wire.

You should be able to order Powercraft spares over the internet if you need wire sooner than that.