Morris Minor Owners Club

Rebuilding a drivers seat for son's car, Murphy, and remembering that when we did this previously their was a choice between standard straps and a rubber diaphragm. Being 6'6"and 19 stone wondered what would be best for the lad?
Cheers Charles

I've recently done the seats in one car with straps and have nearly finished doing another set with diaphragms. All parts were bought from ESM.

The straps:
* Are more original.
* Fit the existing holes in the frame.
* Are difficult to fit because they're wrist-sprainingly tight.

The diaphragm:
* Is 24 pence cheaper than 7 straps.
* Needs new holes drilling in the frame.
* Is easy to attach to the frame because it's a fairly slack fit.
* Sags significantly more under my weight than the straps.

If I was to do another set I would use straps. OK, they're awkward to fit because they're so tight, but there's no messing around drilling new holes and the result is a firmer seat. You have to use straps on the back anyway because there's no back diaphragm available AFAIK.

When you do the rebuild, definitely replace the back straps too. I know it's quite a bit more hassle but it makes a big difference to the comfort on long journeys (I know because I only replaced the base straps at first). I can highly recommend ESM's improved base cushions made from higher density foam - they give a nice firm feel to the seat.

Im tall and no ligh weight, I redone my seat with straps, but made my own out of old chair straps from a sofa. They have lasted well and can easily be replaced. The diaphragm sags a bit and if it rips in one corner the whole lot needs replaced, but one strap can be changed on its own and easily.

So straps it is then and yes the previous owner mentioned that he had rebuilt the base and regretted not doing the back so lesson learnt. Will ESM supply all the bits including straps, foam and wadding etc in a kit for one seat? If so any idea how much?
Cheers Charles

You have to buy the bits individually. 12 straps and one foam pad per seat. I wouldn't have thought you need to replace the wadding unless it's got damp and rotted. If it's come unstuck from the frame, glue it back on with Copydex.

I used the diaphragm, and put some (probably not very helpful) piccies and stuff here

http://www.eastonadventures.co.uk/Seat.htm

I didn't have to drill new holes though. The seat is much firmer with better support.

Andrew

I usad 12mm MDF board. That wont sag, even with my weight.

just for reference i think theres an article about seat rebuilds in this months practical classics

Personaly I think straps are best having tried both and having done a few. Yes they are tricky to fit; I use a thin bolster chisel wide enough so the wires don't slip off and don't try to locate in the frame holes on the first/second stretch, This keeps the wire in alignment which can otherwise diappear into the fold of the strap end. I do the side to side frames first as access is better on the back to front frame sections as interweaving the straps makes it seem even tighter.

Success, seat rebuilt and after changing seats over son has now challenge due to increased height and him being 6'6", but the cushion will settle I'm sure. Thanks for the advice one and all.

Thanks Andrew those pics were useful. I gotta tackle a seat refurb. Theres a bit of metal sticking up on mine and I keep riping my trousers on it!! Got to sort out my plumbing first though!!!

A sharp bit of metal, then?
a

Yeah really sharp!!
Kaf

Think a joke has just been missed

It's no good I cant resist it.

Here is a link to when I did the seats for Sophie.

Chose to ignore it!! My plumbing is no joke its giving me sleepless nights! Seat looks good. x

A wise move, if I may say so