Morris Minor Owners Club

I need to weld / strengthen the driver's side area where the rear shackle plates support the leaf springs

I'm a bit concerned that this is a bit near the fuel tank though obviuosly not up against it

Would I be advised to remove the fule tank 1st (using a MIG welder)

Plus what thickness would you advise to repalce the steel

Ta

Jonathan

I´d say yes, unconditionally.
There´s always a chance that your reasonably small welding area on the outside of the leg will grow into a fullsize chassis leg repair, and by then, you will have done a lot af grinding before you even start the welder.
And for THAT job, I would definitely take out the tank.

But (and there are butts and ifs):

If you KNOW that it´s only going to be a small patch on the outside of the leg, you might find a way to fix it with the tank in. I would not recommend it, though, but (read on)...

Why leave it in? Well, simply because it´s risky and a lot of work to take it out, too. The boot shelf might not come out without drilling out the screws (been there). The boot floor might be rotten, leaving more welding to do (murky tank edges!), the tank itself might be bad, and decides THIS to be the moment to split its halves, The fitting for the gas pipe might be seized and break and/or the pipe itself might just give in when you move it away. In both cases = a world of pain and expense. Been there, done that. In one way, you´re lucky it happens then and there, but..

Can you make 1000% sure there will NOT fly any sparks anywhere near the tank? Is the tank 1000% airtight, no leaks, not even a spot of gasoline to be smelled/seen?

You be the judge. Check out your insurance first, whichever road you go.

Good luck /Richard

petrol + hot sparks = no brainer.

Have seen a tray of petrol on a garage floor being used to clean a chain ignited by someone dropping an ordinary hammer on the concrete floor a good 8-10ft away !!!

You'll be welding inches from the petrol tank so, yes! remove it. As a rear chassis leg/ sping hanger repair section is £20 or so and a nicely made panel (from ESM), I would replace the whole leg and That part of the inner wing that closes the section too.

I've done a guide for this job.

http://homepages.gotadsl.co.uk/~jgm/ekm ... hanger.htm

Yes, Yes and yes.

You will probably need the extra access that the fuel tank not being there gives anyway.

Your work looks really neat chickenjohn very informative, I think my moggy is going to need the same repair doing before the next MOT.

Do you have any pics of the underside repair that you have done?

Fuel tank out no question. Old tanks often have walls that are pinholed with rust and can be semi-porous = vapour+welder = fire.

Disconnect the battery as well if not done already.

OK folks thank you

seems unanimous

jonathan

No question about it, I'm afraid
a

On the 1st pic of the welding there are some small round dots on the lower edge of the new metal but these are a lot wider on the 2nd pic - what are they please?

1st pic - these are drilled holes in the outer panel. The light stuff shining thru is probably zinc primer on the opposite panel.

2nd pic - drilled holes welded-through to underlying/opposite panel, kind of spot weld if you like. It´s called plug welding.

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/plug-weld.htm

Cheers /Richard

Bluesman has saved me the reply!

You can get a hole punch from Machine mart to make those holes (just the right size) and MUCH quicker than drilling each one. When plug welding you must clamp the top piece with the holes tightly to the lower piece to ensure penetration.

I will admit to having done this with the tank in place. I wrapped wet cloths around the filler tube and the open neck was also stuffed with wet cloths. But - my heart was in my mouth throughout, and it was oxy/acetylene flame welding! I only did it because I would get free MOT retest if I took it back within 24 hours. When the underseal and the waxoyl ignited inside the chassis leg - I realised what a fool I had been - and I will NOT do it that way again.