crankshaft pully nut nightmare!

Post by **mogatron** » Wed Mar 05, 2008 6:13 pm

ok so engines out to change crankshaft and bearings. but now cann't get the pully nut off. anybody got any tips?

Post by **8009STEVE** » Wed Mar 05, 2008 6:27 pm

Impact gun?

Post by **mogatron** » Wed Mar 05, 2008 6:33 pm

nope, haven't got one.

Post by **bigginger** » Wed Mar 05, 2008 6:35 pm

Easier when it's in and you can use the starter to do the work

Now your looking at wedging the engine so that it doesn't turn (steel strip bolted to flywheel?) and using a ring spanner and soft mallet
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Post by **8009STEVE** » Wed Mar 05, 2008 6:37 pm

I used on old valve which was bent to 90 Degrees. This was then placed in a bolt hole, so the valve head locked onto the ring gear. This held the flywheel/crank still so you could use a socket on the nut.

Post by **MoggyTech** » Wed Mar 05, 2008 6:58 pm

Take the sump off, lay engine on it's side, and wedge the crank with a bit of wood to prevent it turning. Knock back the pulley nut lockwasher. Use a six sided socket of the correct size (3/4 Whitworth), long extension bar and a lump hammer. It will take a few blows, but the shock will slacken it off.

Post by **bigginger** » Wed Mar 05, 2008 7:09 pm

Duh @ me - forget you could take the sump off, despite having been working on a block without one this afternoon

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Post by **mogatron** » Wed Mar 05, 2008 7:40 pm

ok i'll try the block of wood method tomorrow. i love it when a plan comes together!

Post by **HarryMango** » Wed Mar 05, 2008 7:58 pm

If the engine is out - you can put a spanner/socket on one of the flywheel bolts & hold this whilst you welly the spanner on the crankshaft nut.

Rog

Post by **bmcecosse** » Wed Mar 05, 2008 8:25 pm

The lump of wood works well - but do remove the oil filter intake first to prevent damage. It really is best to loosen this while the engine is still in the car and the starter motor does the work.

Post by **bigginger** » Wed Mar 05, 2008 9:44 pm

bmcecosse wrote:The lump of wood works well

Seconded. Just be sure to remove any wooden remnants before fitting the shells though
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Post by **alanworland** » Wed Mar 05, 2008 10:07 pm

I've removed a couple of crankshaft bolts with an impact wrench and couldn't believe how easy they come undone. I spent much more time getting the compressor unearthed, finding airlines, correct sockets etc than actually doing it!

Post by **bigginger** » Wed Mar 05, 2008 10:40 pm

Wish I'd tried it before knackering the bolt heads on the last engine. I've even got the damn wrench

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Post by **mogatron** » Thu Mar 06, 2008 12:24 pm

right, tryed the block of wood method and still nothing. anymore ideas wecome

Post by **DaveC** » Thu Mar 06, 2008 12:55 pm

As a last resort: As long as you are outside, or well ventilated with NO petrol vapour around, I have had success by heating nuts up carefully with a blowlamp. Heat the nut not the pulley. The expansion of the metal breaks the rust in the thread. Just an idea that has worked for me time and time again on the boat engine...

Post by **alanworland** » Thu Mar 06, 2008 12:59 pm

If the engines out, take it to an engineering shop for their impact wrench or failing that contact a mobile tyre fitter with impact facilities.

Post by **RogerRust** » Thu Mar 06, 2008 1:07 pm

The way to do it is with either a socket or a ring spanner on the nut and hit it hard with a lump hammer. If it doesn't come undone your not hitting it hard enough.

I've never had to block the engine or the flywheel, but you do have to be prepared to hit it hard! So make sure its safe first!

Umm. Sorry to state the obvious

but you have bent back the tab washer?

Post by **bigginger** » Thu Mar 06, 2008 1:10 pm

Seconded. One of the few nuts that I haven't failed with yet
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Post by **mogatron** » Thu Mar 06, 2008 4:16 pm

Alright she's off!!! heated it up and smacked the woohar out of it. thanks team!!

Post by **bigginger** » Thu Mar 06, 2008 4:49 pm

Good news

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