Morris Minor Owners Club

Well i always knew there were copious amount of filler on scabby, but had the urge to just see how much with a hammer & chisel

First up the door - is this repairable with the 2 standard repair panels? Theres little left of the underside, but since getting rid of Mr Bodgeit's filler attempts it actually shuts properly now !
Theres easily good metal 3" up all the way along, just not sure how wide the repair panels are?
Bottom hinge is flexing from inside the door but will know more about that when i get them removed and stripped.
This door used to be ligth blue by the look of it so possibly not the 1st one thats been on it.

Wing, thats shot from below where the chisel is holding it out, fine above that apart from 1 perforation on the top round, got to be worth trying to fix as the rest of its perfect metal wise.

I'm guessing the inner wing will need attention in the same place but that will become clearer when the panels are off.

Any advice opinon welcome please this is all new territory for me, Luckily theres no rot underneath, and after seeing the efforts of some on here I'm bloody determined to have a go at it

Any advice opinon welcome

Your certainly one for a challenge I think doggies expression says it all,Gud luk and when is the new Mig arriving?Could be busy

Firstly the doors. Repair panels will fix that, but you will need a joddle tool, to joddle the repair seam. However take the sill kickplates off, as there is likely to be horrors lurcking in there as well.

Next the wings. Quite easy to make repair panels to repair the trailing edge, and at least you know the wings will fit once you have repaired them.

Inner wings and 'A' post, very likely there will be rot in there.

If your new to welding practice on some old sheet metal. It's all too easy to blow holes in door repair sections, as it's a fiddly repair to get an invisible join. You really do need Co2/Argon mix for that part of the repair (same goes for the wings.) Flux MIG wire gives off to much splatter for very fine work.

Make sure its Argon shield 'light' and not 'universal' argon shield, as the latter burns too hot.

Cheers guys so far, actually walked away got on with something else and went back for another look, think its very fair to say the doors going to be a write off.
Not adverse to getting this new mini mig and getting it done, however.... was painting some bits on the bench, looked accross and thought thats not right.

Rear edge of the stainless to door pillar line really out (photos below) to teh extent of an inch to the front on the top corner.
Heart sank for a moment thinking bent floor - common sense got the better and catagorically know that the underside is clean good and straight.

Still baffled can of beer in hand had a cursory look down the side lines of teh panels. Bingo ! door knackered !
Whats happend is that Mr Bodgit has just kept stuffing fiberglass/filler/isopon in the bottom of the door.
Result a buldge where it meets the sill plate, hence the not closing smoothly problem.
That in turn has more than likely cream crackered the bottom hinge mounting in the door, but worse its actually bowed the top edge of the door outwards where metal becomes glass.

So guessing that even if i managed to fix the bottom by welding (yes Jono know i need a joggler can borrow one - just have to learn to use it )
fact is top is distorted to the point its nothing i will be able to sort?

Tried taking some pics of comparison of the side lines but because not an slr coulnt quite capture the distortion - where the window pillar - main / triangular meets the steel of teh door reckon its a good inch out of line outwards so would explain the inch out on the top left of the window.

If you think the door could be scrap anyway, then there's no harm in seeing if you can ease or lever it back into position / shape. If the hinge panel is a bit stuffed, then you may be able to wiggle it to get a mostly even gap all round ?

The join on the repair panel can be a little rough, just make sure the join sits inwards into the door a few mm so that you can just skim with filler, then sand to shape. Though it can take a bit of patience!

Sadly you have reminded me that William has at least 2 doors that need rebottoming...



{boring spag anecdote and link time}
Had to to serious work on the Pievan to move the rear arches 5 inches back, so cut the shell, then fitted in arch repair panels, then got busy with the filler and the air sander !
http://www.spagweb.com/v8mini/pievan/pierear.htm
http://www.spagweb.com/v8mini/pievan/piepaint2.htm
{/boring spag anecdote and link time}

The door alignment may be out due to bodged A pillar/inner wing repairs.
I would strip it down (door, kickplates and wing off) to get a real idea of what you are taking on.

Nothing cardboard for templates, steel for shaping, and a welder won't put right. Oh and a load of time and swearing. Big hammer as well

Go for it Orkney, give the pig some luxury transport

Hee hee - forgot to say Ork, you really need to find some hidden rot to practice your welding on before you tackle visible bodywork.

Ooo, see, there is some benefit to finding other stuff to fix !!!!

Spag dude have no fear the hidden rot will be along soon enough !

MT the time the swearing the hammer all can do - you forgot the beer

Going to order the aggregate for the garage floor next week, should get it finished in 2 or 3 weeks weather pemitting then thats it scabby in bits ! it will probably take longer than expected

Orkney wrote: it will probably take longer than expected

Now there's a surprise! ;)