Morris Minor Owners Club

When jacking up the front suspension arm, loading the torsion bar, to enable the steering swivel to be fitted, I have found it a good idea to, prior to jacking, bolt the front pressed arm to the rear so that the arm can be pulled down the torsion bar spline this allows the arm assembly to centre itself around the rubber bushed eye.
Once jacked high enough the front arm can be removed allowing assembly of the swivel.
Doing this avoids excessive loading on the front bush encouraging rapid wear.

Maybe me being thick - but I don't get this ! Any chance of a picture of what you mean ?

I can't make any sense of it either.
a

Phew - at least it's not just me then!
r

No its just both of you !

Could you explain what it's about, then? I'm not sure what "the steering swivel" is (a trunnion?) or why you need to bolt the two arms together to pull the rear arm down the torsion bar
a

Nor me! no hang I wrote it!
I have not got any pics, sorry.
Well, with the torsion bar fixed to the cross member and the suspension arm hanging down ready for jacking.
At this stage I have found it beneficial to bolt the front (pressed steel) section of the suspension on. This has the effect of pulling the arm along the torsion bar spline and allows the arms gap to centre about the eyebolt.
Then, when the arm is jacked up to swivel assembly height (jacking on the rear section only) the front (pressed) section can be unbolted to allow swivel fitting. (The torsion bar will not slide back because of the semi comressed bush)
I have found that if this is not carried out the front bush is over compressed caused by the arm assembly being to far along its spline.
Hope this helps

Sure I'm just being thick, but I still don't understand. Why has the space the torsion bar fits into altered in the first place, and why not just nudge the rear arm forward with a hammer?

As I say, I'm sure it's just me being dense
a

There you go ,just what I thought !!

I find that unless corroded solid the rear part of the suspension arm is free to move on the spline, which it will do, and backwards.
Yes it can be hit with a hammer, but mine is painted and it seemed a sensible way to centre it all.
Thats all

I'm not trying to contradict you or start a fight, honest - I've just never had the problem to which you've described the solution. Mind you, I've never found a torsion bar on which the arm slides that easily either
a

This is a very common problem, and the method described is the one recommended in the workshop manual. It's fairly common to see a destroyed eyebolt bush flange, caused by the lower arms being out of line to the eyebolt.
Unfortunately, if the rear (thick) arm is not free to slide on the splines then no assembly method is going to put it right. If you're lucky, it's rusted solid on the splines in the right place, but if the crossmember end or chassis leg gets replaced then 1 or 2 mm difference is enough to kill the bush flange.
When the arm is free on the splines, then doing it this way will allow them to centralise, and avoid over squishing one of the top hat sections on the eye bolt bushes. They have to be centralised by fitting the front lower arm prior to loading the torsion bar - as the rear arm won't slide easily on the splines when it is under load.

Mind you, I've never found a torsion bar on which the arm slides that easily either

You don't find them, you have to 'make them' (penetrating fluid, time + big hammer)
If the rear lower arm doesn't slide, then an alternative is to play with the thickness of the C-washer at the rear (i.e. to shim the torsion bar correctly to the crossmember). Personally I'd rather do it the way it was designed than mess about with other washers.