Morris Minor Owners Club

Can anyone suggest a reason why this isn't a good idea?

Drill a hole in the engine bay floor above each chassis leg to facilitate application of rust prevention treatment. Cap the hole with rubber bung. Neat, tidy, darn useful.

Or drill a hole in the bottom of the Chassis leg for wax injection- can then also act as another drain hole. If you are worried they might not like it for the MOT, then plug the hole with a grommit.

Can anyone suggest a reason why this isn't a good idea?

Yes points would be knocked off a concours car.
Seriously though that seems a good idea I wonder if there would be an optimum position.

Yes, good idea as long as the hole is on the bottom face to let water out
not on top. The holes should be forward of the Eyebolts to allow unrestricted access to the front sections.

Peetee wrote:Can anyone suggest a reason why this isn't a good idea?

Drill a hole in the engine bay floor above each chassis leg to facilitate application of rust prevention treatment. Cap the hole with rubber bung. Neat, tidy, darn useful.

Original engine bay floors did have a hole in the engine bay above the chassis legs! No rubber bungs though. There was also a hole in the bottom of the chassis leg roughly underneath the hole in the engine bay floor.

i have a car with the original engine bay floor and a van and no holes above chassis legs

Wax (or old oil) injection into any sealed cavity is always an excellent idea. The holes could be in the side of each member (in fact - there are some as I remember) and yes close them off after injection. Wax works best if hot and slightly diluted with thinner. I soaked my TR7 chassis in waxoyl at the week-end using the long nozzle gun that came with the compressor - and it's now dripping quietly on the garage floor.

aupickup wrote:i have a car with the original engine bay floor and a van and no holes above chassis legs

My 1963 trav' has them.

This decision was made for me by the previous owner. The only problem I have is my Schultz gun hasn't got a very long pipe on it so it can be a bit of a fiddle waxing it more down to the kit I have than anything

My gun at 40 psi produces a vast cloud of waxoyl - as I discovered when I hit the trigger by accident before it was inside the side pods!

LOL. In future to find the car you just had to follow the yellow brick road!

Peetee wrote:Can anyone suggest a reason why this isn't a good idea?

Drill a hole in the engine bay floor above each chassis leg to facilitate application of rust prevention treatment. Cap the hole with rubber bung. Neat, tidy, darn useful.

I saw a van a few years back where this had been done by an enthusiastic owner many years ago. His holes were big enough to pop a funnel in and pour in the used engine oil on each oil change. A small metal plate fitted with self tappers covered the holes when not in use.
Ok, it wasn't neat, and rust prevention has come on somewhat since used engine oil was the thing to slap on, and yes it was the most oily sticky mess you have ever seen, but it was also the best original chassis I've ever seen too...

I personally was thinking about drilling holes in the ends of chassis legs (taking off front panel first) I was going to use a parrafin gun with whitespirit diluted Waxoyl.

Can you not (on a saloon) get at the interior of the legs via the gearbox cover anyway? 'Scuse my LCV-centric ignorance ;)
a

You can indeed. I think you can get it in the rear chassis legs as well without drilling holes I think.

And of course in the sills, all you need to do is remove the kick plates.

So far we've had holes in the top,bottom, side and end! As above there is one big hole with the gearbox cover removed, and a probe could reach to the front, no rear box section on a saloon.( well not above now, as there is a post in between)

The eyebolt assemble would reduce the efficiency of applying waxoyle from the gearbox cover right to the front of the legs. Hence my original post. IMHO Unless you have a high pressure system to hand, a long probe only causes the waxoyle to thicken too much before it leaves the hose resulting in dribbling rather than spraying.

Drill holes in outside of front chassis leg just forward of the eye bolt, make sure it's accessible with your Schutz gun, seal with a grommet after waxoiling, makes life easy for future applications!

I opted for drilling extra holes in the bottom face of the chassis leg and in a few other places too, the rear box sections (saloon) along from the shocker arm mount, door pillars, sills etc. I've never had a comment on an mot and haven't had to touch the car for over 10 years with the welder either!!I did the same with my convertible, traveller and now I'm currently rebuiling sections of my pick up chassis by forming some of my own box section, I'm putting extra vents/drains/holes in them too. I don't want to be doing that job again!! You know you've put too much wax in though when you leave little heaps of it under your newly drilled drains on a hot summers day. . . . . . . It was my brothers first attempt at wax treatment. . .bless!!! lol!