Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi all.

Should or should I not oil/lubricate the rear leaf springs?

Cheers,

Rein

I've been led to believe that you shouldn't, as it affects the friction between leaves/springing properties. I don't have any authority to quote though, and I bet 2p that plenty of people will disagree and start arguing about it
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The manual says no due to rubber bushes, but does state you can wipe then over with brake fluid. However, the likes of Bentley and RR used to grease the springs, then wrap them with leather to keep the grease in, and the muck out. I grease mine with copperslip every six months, stops rust and sqeeks.

Dilemma isn't it, if dry then the squeak and corrode, if lubed, then the dirt and grit sticks and wears them...

Thanks all.

I would imagine that two pieces of metal sliding need lubricating. I also understand that dirt and grit sticks to it. hmmmm? It is a dilemma.
I will try both and see which on I like better.

How about rebuilding the springs, painting copper grease in a stripe between the 'layers' 3 or 4mm from the egdges, reasemble then apply a bead of silicone between the edges?
Grease should stay in and dirt shouldnt be able to get in there, whilst remaining flexible.
Ive got a set ready to put back together, they are painted black, might be worth a try, just need to get a tube of super duper black silicone.

I'll give it a go if the general concensus is that it may work, loathed to try otherwise as it took a long time to get them cleaned and painted

Need a cunning system to feed the drippy sump oil to other bits of the chassis instead of only protecting the gearbox cross member !!!

I remember years ago (when I was a lad) I greased the dis assembled leaves (Castrol LM) assembled then wrapped them in that cloth based insulating tape, not sure if you can still get it, this lasted well untill the tape disintegrated (afew years) then I just used to brush them with grease to keep the moisture out.
But they still wore out

I waxoyl the leaf springs, it quietens them and (possibly) helps the ride. Certianly helps stop the rust. The choice is yours.

I know a chap who regularly sprays his Landy's leaf springs with diesel from a little pump-action spray bottle, and it's been his daily driver for probably 20 years. He's a self-employed joiner so it does a lot of miles.

[Dad mode]
Sorry I have to take issue with this oil thing. I know Minor's are not perfect oil retention recepticals but I cannot condone applying runny oil to external components just to see if it makes a difference. Please be aware of the safety issues of allowing oil to drip onto roads especially with regard to two wheeled transport.
[end dad mode]

Waxoyl wont drip onto the road.

If you oil/grease them then you should wrap them up in Denso (as mentioned above) or I have heard of strips of old inner tube being used. Orkney - the movement will be too much for silicon sealer. TBH - I've got more pressing things for my time than oiling springs!

Wont the springs actually wear out/become to saggy before any serious rust gets to them?? I thought they were so thick and beefy that rust wasnt too much of a problem?

My new springs have been coated in something similar to powder coat. Might be just black paint they spray on for storage or whatever..

I'd never bother oiling leaf springs. Pointless excersize imo. They're not delicate enough to wear through friction movement and by the time the rust has eaten them they'll be flat as a pancake and in the bin anyway.

wrapped them in that cloth based insulating tape, not sure if you can still get it

You can get the real thing, if you want it, from Woolies Trim:-

http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/c-36-spring-binding.aspx

but the Morris manual says don't lubricate them.

As others have already said, any wear is going to be very slight compared to natural "sag" over the years, so if they are worn, they're probably soft, and would need replacing anyway.

If you're worried about squeaks, I'd have thought a judicious application of silicon lubricant (like the stuff they sell to make drawers and curtains slide easier), or possibly a spray of CV joint boot lubricant would be more appropriate than oil or grease.

In the landrover world, its normal to do the springs regularly with motorbike chain grease.

Saying that, we need to get a lot of articulation out of the springs



Its not world shattering, but doing the springs does make a difference to the ride, its a bit smoother, but thats probably more from doing the fronts than the backs (obviously not an issue with a minor)

Its generally the case that keeping the springs on LR's worked ocasionally is more important than anything else - a vehicle thats been stood for years is as rough as anything for the first few hundred miles...

I have a 1958 2-door Saloon with original drivetrain. Can anyone tell me how many leaves are supposed to be in the rear springs? It looks like it has 3 or 4. I was given a set with, I think, 7. Is there any benefit to going with the heavy-duty set? Do poly bushes make any difference? Thanks- really enjoy this site.

Minimum number of spring leaves should be 5. Using a 7 leaf spring is also fine, especially if you frequently carry a full load of passengers.

Poly bushes are superb. They last longer, give more positive handling, and are easier to fit than the rubber ones. As with anything, quality does vary, with Superflex being about the best I have tried.

MoggyTech wrote:I grease mine with copperslip every six months, stops rust and sqeeks.

Copperslip is actually abrasive and should not be used as a lubricant on any moving parts so in effect you are actually shortening the life of your springs by applying it!