Morris Minor Owners Club

I've replaced all sorts of bits on the front suspension of Albert, including a new steering balljoint. Can anyone let me into a tip on how to get the tracking set near enough right so that I don't end up in a ditch on the way to the MOT (should I ever get to that stage )

Marking the threads befoer you change a track rod end is the normal way, but your past that stage.

You can rig up two pieces of straight wood mounted on a block so that the wooden rails are lined up with the centre of each wheel and touch the tyres. Measure between front and rear of the wooden rails, the front
should be 2.5mm closer together to give you the rough toe IN.

If you want just to get to the MOT.... you can do it by eye!

Firstly line the steering up fairly central, then look across the edge of the front tyre, towards the rear of the car. When the front wheels are parrallel the edge of the front tyre will line up with the edge of the rear tyre. It can take a couple of attempts to get it set parrellel, but you don't have to lock the adjuster up which saves time.
If you loosen the end of the steering gaiter the track rod is free to turn - this allows you to leave the ball joint in the taper on the steering arm.

You do need the car on its wheels on level ground to get a representative reading - if it's on a jack, there is an effect on the steering angle.



The wooden batton method can be very good for fine tuning, but if it was me I'd worry about fine tuning after getting an MOT.
It can be made adjustable by using 2 screws through each piece of wood that line up with the outer edge of the rim. The screws can be adjusted until the battons are parrallel when held against each other.
Then you have a choice of doing the 2.5mm setting on the screws (1.25mm longer on the front screw on both sides) - or keep them set parrallel and work out the angle you want and how long the wood is to get your measurements.

rayofleamington wrote: The wooden batton method can be very good for fine tuning, but if it was me I'd worry about fine tuning after getting an MOT.
It can be made adjustable by using 2 screws through each piece of wood that line up with the outer edge of the rim. The screws can be adjusted until the battons are parrallel when held against each other.
Then you have a choice of doing the 2.5mm setting on the screws (1.25mm longer on the front screw on both sides) - or keep them set parrallel and work out the angle you want and how long the wood is to get your measurements.

Genius, much better the method I found on the net. This involved spray painting a centre, then scribing a line on both tyres and then measuring.

-GRant F.

Hello Grant,

the problem with trying to measure the wheel track physically is that
you can't measure at the rear. The measurement needs to be at hub centre height (or very near) You just can't do that.

Alec

To measure the tracking at the rear of the wheels you can use a plumb bob, or two pieces of metal rod fixed to the wooden rails pointing down at 90 degrees to the rails. There are also those drive over alignment gauges, that work well, but how often would you use one, as they are not cheep. Mark one eyeball is fine though, as per Rays post.

Hello MT,,

not only is that awkward to do, it introduces more errors.

The drive over gauge is relatively cheap if you have a few cars to do but I'm told the same effect can be obtained by driving straight over a magazine, if it moves the wheel is not tracked. Sounds a bit fiddly but very inexpensive?

Alec

Yes - the easy way is with newspaper - or magazine - if it twists as you gently push the car over then it's not right. Very simple check is just with 6' batten of straight timber - hold against each wheel in turn sticking forward and see how it points on each wheel - this will then give you a near enough setting for an MOT run. However - and very effective tracking gauge can be made from Dexion angle - and yes it can easily measure the front and rear walls of the tyres - it just sits on the ground with the 'arms ' sticking up at 45 degrees. I just set one arm gently against the tyre - and check the other side with a steel rule. This method gives me the same reading 3 times out of 3 ! I think it works.
Note that for correct geometry in the turn - each track rod end should be screwed on to it's track rod by the same number of turns. Near enough check is to measure the length of unused thread showing on each track rod - both should be very similar - within 1/8" should be fine.