Morris Minor Owners Club

We've been driving our minor for a month now (since flying through it's first MOT for ten years!) and we really love it. The only little niggle is the clutch. It's very digital ie ON or OFF. I'm finding it very hard to make a smooth take off. Reversing is even worse. It feels like the axle is going to fall off! Now I may just be used to more modern clutches and should probably get on with it.

Any advice?

Fenchurch's clutch action was very harsh until I fitted a full new clutch kit at the same time as changing the gearbox. You do get used to driving it like that but setting off is much smoother now.

There are lots of things that can affect the clutch action, the engine steady needs to be in good order and not adjusted too tight, same thing with the gearbox steady cable, the propshaft UJ joints can have an affect, very worn engine mountings is another and of course the pedal action themselves as there are bushes that can be worn and even the shaft itself so you do have a few places to check as well as Alex`s suggestion, and the problem is not uncommon.

Thanks for the replies.

The gearbox steady cable is broken so I'll change that first. I'm not sure I have an engine steady. Where would it be? I've repaired the clutch pedal linkages as they were badly worn.

I'll check the other things when the wife gets back from work. I'm a little reluctant to change the clutch as it does it's job and doesn't slip. But if I can't cure the kangaroo I'll have to.

Engine steady is the small bar that connects the back of the cylinder head to a bracket on the bulkhead (just below battery). It has 4 rubber bushes that can perish. If its completely missing then that could be the cause of your problem!

Definitely no engine steady. I'll add one to the shopping list

Definitely no engine steady. I'll add one to the shopping list

Before you do that you need to check that the mounting position below the battery box on the left hand side is still intact as they are known to break away in which case it can be a horrible job to repair and the old type of Grumpy (a trader who no longer exsist) engine steady is an alternative, hopefullt someone will post a picture of the complete item so you can see what is supposed to be there.
Also replace the gearbox steady as soon as possible otherwise under heavy braking your fan will pay the radiator a visit , remember it only just needs to be under tension and not bow tight.

Hot Off Thre Press

Nice and shiney!

dont recall ever seeing an engine steady on scqabby
oh well thats the first job of th eday sorted as soon as it gets light

Just a few pointers to anyone who is fitting the engine steady, or even adjusting one that's already there.

Make sure it is adjusted, so that it neither pushes, nor pulls at the engine. It should be under neutral tension. When correctly adjusted, it should be easy to rotate the complete tie bar, with minimal force, using a spanner on the centre section.

If you spray the rubber bushes with cone spray, you should be able to turn the thing by hand.

If you spray the rubber bushes with cone spray, you should be able to turn the thing by hand.

Not heard of cone spray before is it a type of rubber lubricant.

Hi Kevin,

Yup, cone spray, you get it from motor factors. Basicaly used to fit CV boots over the CV joints in FWD cars. You spray it on a cone, then slide the boot over, prevents the boot from splitting. Gerat stuff for rubber bushes, as it doesn't attack the rubber, and is super slippy.

Thanks for all the tips guys. Plenty to keep me occupied for a while.

Curious to see how much my engine moved when pulling away, I did a little video here

It's quite surprising. Definitely going to get a steady or I might have a go at making one. Shouldn't be too hard.

I thought you meant silicone.
Which is a lubricant used for uphostery making when working with vinyl.
And probably loads of other things I know nothing of.
Steve

Rob for what it costs I'd buy one, I like the video another computer skill to be learnt[/quote]I might have a go at making one. [quote][/quote]

XDB wrote:Rob for what it costs I'd buy one

Yeah but I had a quiet nightshift so I knocked this up:



The clutch is a bit better.

lovelly bit of work Rob, but on my original the rubber bushes are at the end to isolate the bar from metal to metal contact.

The rubber parts do isolate the metal parts. They have M8 threaded sections (nuts I suppose) at each end. I used M8 threaded rod and locknuts to get my adjustment. It passed the time anyway.

that will do nicely better than original