Found this by accident on indestructables - painting a car using Rustoleum - alrhough the guy sprayed it rather than roller its an impressive finish.
Worth look if your a cheapskate like me and considering a DIY paintjob
I posted a link where a chap in the States roller painted his car then when dry flatted it and repeated this to get a very good finish. See the "re-spray question" thread in bodywork section. You still have to do a lot of preparation to get a good finish, whatever paint you use.
Yes i saw that one too CJ from the link you posted, amazingly that guy did the job outside IIRC !
The bit that caught my eye with this was the fact Rustoleum is an enamel, which i'd been thinking on the lines of narrow boat / show engine enamel for scabby.
Shall buy a small tin next time i'm out and experiement with roller finish on an old body panel.
Be great if it works, easily available - cheap and shouldnt be a problem to mix standrd colours to get close to maroon (although havnt told the dragon yet but i'm swaying towards more of a red than maroon )
Its the dry flattting thats the hassle!
Many hours of very, very hard work! Also be sure to use an enamel that can be flatted. Some can't be 'cut and polished'
While I can understand some peoples desire to brush or roller paint a car, it is in fact, compaired to spray painting a total pain in the rear end. The prep work is just as involved, and the painting process longer, and in most cases harder to correct problems. Most enamels take ages to dry, which gives dust and insects an eternity to land on the paint.
My traveller has had a deep scratch on one rear wing for some time, and as I filled it in with a brush it looked decent. Yesterday I decided to repair it properly. Minimal masking took two minutes.
1: Wet and Dry scratch repair to bare metal
2: Key surrounding area with Wet and dry 400 grit
3: Prime bare metal
4: Smooth area with 800 Grit used dry
5: Tac Cloth
6: Spray on gripper dust coat
7: Spray on Four Coats of Celly
8: When paint dry, heat panel with ceramic heater
9: Burnish with 1200 grit used wet
10 Compound Polish
Job took one hour tops.
The other problem with most enamels, is you cannot spray Celly on top of them, it lifts the enamel. Some enamels craze if they are not flexible enough to withstand panel flexing and changes in temperature. If the Celly paint under the enamel is not 100% stable after prep, and if it 'dies' further after being painted over, the enamel will flake off in huge chunks.
Even a fairly duff Celly respray can be made to look great if you got enough paint on the car. Of course 2 pack is more durable, but without ALL of the correct safety gear, it is LETHAL.
Just a footnote, I have been looking at some of the paintjobs on 07 plate cars, and some of them are dire! Little to no depth to the shine, and orangepeel finish. Pugs/Mercs and Vauxhalls seem to be the worst especially black paint jobs.
I agree with moggytech. Roller/brush painting may seem easier but to get a good finish it could actually be much MORE work than spraying with cellulose. With practise you can get a good finish straight out of the gun with no need for wet sanding and polishing.