Morris Minor Owners Club

I am about to put my 1959 Minor 948cc back on the road after complete strip/restoration. I have renewed all the brake lines, master cylinder and shoes etc. and have tried bleeding once. I had my mate sat in the car watching the fluid level in the M/Cylinder and operating the foot brake pedal whilst I opened the nipples and locked off etc.

We went round the car starting with the o/side rear nipple, moving to the n/side rear and then to the front o/side - front n/side. On each cycle my mate pumped the pedal 4 or 5 times, holding the pedal down whilst I locked off the nipple being bled. On each occasion the air bubbles had seemed to stop flowing through. The end result was that the brake pressure switch worked OK (Operated the brake lights) but still very spongy and pedal almost to the floor - even after adjusting the brakes all round as per the manual.

I am going to have another go this weekend. My mate suggested there was a pressurised bleed kit on the market (Halfords?) which worked off the pressure in the spare wheel but the cap on the Minor M/Cylinder is not the same as most car m/cylinders so the fit may not be right.

Anyone out there who could give me some tips?

Thanks.

John

You have used the correct method - and order of bleeding, so try try again! I bleed my brakes by simply connecting a plastic pipe over the nipple and into a jar with a little fluid. Then open the nipple - and sit back and have a cuppa. The fluid seems to run through ok - taking the bubbles with it.
Other method is for mate to pump up the pedal hard - then a quick open-close of each nipple in turn by you. Sometimes this seems to blast out hard to move air.

This has come up before so you're not alone. Have a look at:

http://www.morrisminoroc.co.uk/index.ph ... ic&t=13102

The Gunson pressure bleed kit works well, but you seem to go through a lot of brake fluid when you use it. I prefer the easy bleed tube with the non return valve in it, one man job and has worked for me every time.

On each cycle my mate pumped the pedal 4 or 5 times, holding the pedal down whilst I locked off the nipple being bled.

Have I read this correctly, he pumped the pedal 4 or 5 times while you had the nipple open, if so that will be part of the problem as you need to close it every time the pedal is put to the floor.

I had assumed the nipple was being locked off each time the pedal was down.

Look on the bright side. At least you know all the system will be filled with very fresh brake fluid

One other little trick, even when using the one way valve bleed tube. Cut a length of wood to fit between the drivers seat and brake pedal when it's on the floor. When you have clean fluid with no air bubbles in it coming down the tube, wedge the brake pedal down with the piece of wood. Saves the mad dash to close off the bleed nipple, during which I usually trip over something

The ezibleed system works well for me - nut you will need to buy a new master cylinder cap.

Drill and tap a hole in the cap (for one of the threads supplied in the kit), block off the breather hole in the side of the cap (self tapping screw + araldite).

Job done!

Colin