Morris Minor Owners Club

Anyone done this?
As I never turn off the heater supply I don't need the bypass hose and so could elimiinate a potential source of trouble by blanking it off. I'm thinking of aralditing a short bolt in the stub under the head and ditto into the water pump casting, but I suspect others have a more elegant soloution. What do you think? MikeN.

If you do this, remember to drill a couple of small holes into the thermostat to allow some coolant flow before the stat opens.

Not sure I like the idea of having a water system blanked off using glue.
Heat + vibration could cause the glue to fracture and break. Better to run a threaded tap into the pipes and fit blanking plugs with some thread seal such as Atmos.

If you do this, remember to drill a couple of small holes into the thermostat to allow some coolant flow before the stat opens.

The thermostat only controlls the flow to the radiator. Having a permanently open heater circuit will ensure there is some flow (like on some a-series where there is just an open stub pipe on the head for the heater, not a valve, and therefore no need for a bypass hose)

Yes, I like the idea of threaded bolts. I'm just going to have a rummage to see what I can find, but I wondered if anyone had already done this. I suspect that threading the water pump in place will be difficult. Will let you know. MikeN.

Well, I've run a 3/8th inch BSF tap down the pipe on the water pump casting and got a good fit with a short bolt. In the head I've run a 7/16th inch BSF tap but as the stub is thin, luckily its a shallow thread. But it takes a bolt securely. I'll trim it down to make plug. Unless anyone's got an awful warning, I'm inclined to give it a go.
MT, what's Atmos and where do I get it? I'm inclined to use a Locktite product or go back to Araldite, but if Atmos is The Thing, I'll give it a go.
MikeN.
By the way, is the stub in the head a press fit? I can't move them in either of the head's I've got.

Excellent idea to eliminate bypass - took Rover 40 years to think of it! No need for holes in thermostat - and you will find your heater works better - and sooner. Just use Loctite on your threads - it will be fine.

I unscrewed the head stub (with the assistance of an oxy-acetylene torch and a cold chisel) and Loctited a cap head bolt in its place, then I replaced the water pump with a Metro one that doesn't have a bypass fitting. I drilled a couple of small holes in the outside of the thermostat to make sure there's always some flow through the head.

Lucky to get that stub out! It's often badly rusted. And if you want v best heater performance - fit an 88 degree stat with NO holes for the winter.

Any good thread seal will do as long as it's water resistant. Atmos is just a brand name for plumbers thread seal.

Thanks for all the advice folks!
I'm going out now to cut up a couple of bolts to make plugs with screwdriver slots in the ends and install them with some sealant. Another vulnerability less! Regards, MikeN.
(bmc - already got an 89C thermo and v pleased.)

I think its possible to get a blanking plug from the Mini specialists if you can get the old stub out of the head.

Some Rover heads have that plug fitted - dunno about availablity today.

These may help
http://www.minispares.com/SearchResults ... ty=fi&rt=1

That would do nicely - and only £1 each. Well found!

If you didn't want to change over the water pump or fit a plug into it will this do which was listed on the web page mentioned above,

http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?pid=32723

bit expensive but cheaper here,

http://www.hytheperformance.co.uk/index ... rod_id=724