Morris Minor Owners Club

Looking at the carb yesterday thought would give it a good clean today, whilst at it thought why not have a look at the fuel pump filter (which was filthy) and change the beyond stumps of points.

Got the new ones on but they wont tick on thier own so obviously i have the gap WAY out.

When fitting new how far on do you screw the new set on the treaded roller?
I went as far as the thread just protruding through the roller but have a feeling its no where near screwed on enough.
Cant make any sense of the gap setting diagram in haynes so have left it alone until i can find out the correct way !
Cant be getting stressed whilst trying to give up drink !

Did you clean up the faces of the new points? often they have a waxy protection to stop them corroding in storage but that does't help them work... (I got fooled by tha once, but only once)

Never tried that Ray - will do so.
Was thinking would have been darned handy if youd been passing !

Had another look at them in comparison to the old ones - gap looks ok - i can get a contact moving them by hand - but that doesnt rule out a coating i guess.

did you do them according to the book - till they just click over then back 7 screw holes?

I would slacken them off until they 'click over'. Did you not count the old points off - number of turns ?

As Stevey says, the way you're supposed to do it is to split the body and screw the diaphragm in until the points just click over when you press firmly on the centre of the diaphragm, then back it off a few holes. Try not to split the pump chamber apart (it's made from two castings) unless you have a spare gasket or some gasket paper to make a new one.

H&S warning: Standard gasket paper isn't usually very good at sealing petrol!

AHA - right getting somewhere - had not a clue you are supposed to split the pump casing. Wouldnt have touched them if i'd known that

Looking at the pump itself thats probably asking for trouble, had to unbolt it from the battery box just to get the filter out, its pretty oxidised and encrusted in crud so splitting it will cause more problems I'd imagine.

Dont have gasket or paper, might have to resort to hylomar blue coated cornflake

Didnt count the old ones off but the new ones are within no more than 2 turns of teh position of the old going by the protrusion of the thread through the spindle roller thing.
Didnt think it was that critical given the new ones have what 4mm combined meat on the points whereas what came off had nil so it was going to be out by that much to begin with.

Reckon I'll clean the faces first then try a couple of turns in.
Have to get it sorted or poor old scabby wont be going anywhere.

rayofleamington wrote:H&S warning: Standard gasket paper isn't usually very good at sealing petrol!

The stuff I've got seems to work OK. I think it was sold as suitable for oil and petrol. I wouldn't use ordinary cardboard.

Suppose the sensible thing to do is get a new gasket & diaphragm if i'm going to have to go to the trouble of splitting it. Daresay it wouldnt hurt to replace the D.

I could probably make you a gasket and post it up - if the postmen weren't on strike again. The latest diaphragm I bought didn't come with a gasket so I'll have to make a new one anyway when I get around to rebuilding my spare pump. Try just splitting the body at the diaphragm first. If you're lucky you might not need to replace the gasket or diaphragm.

Just had another look at it.
Wound it up some more on the spindle - being easier to remove the bakelite holder and do it that way.
I'm truly reluctant to split the pump, just reckon it will be opening a whole new can of worms.
Anyway tried again no joy, will just try some more.
Ray was right about the coating BTW, thy were definitely covered with a gum/varnish so thats one thing out of the way at least.
Just a bit darned annoyed at myself now because obviously the cars going nowhere

What does the pump do when you supply power to it?

I would NOT split the pump - either get hold of another or continue with points adjustment till they work. I think you have them too tight - slacken off! It is perfectly possible to replace points without splitting the pump. BTW - if your engine has a little blanking plate on the side - below #1 ex port - then you can fit a mechanical pump from a Mini (and many other cars) and forget the electric pump hassle.

Stop Press !
Scabby lives !!!

Went back again, after the last adjustment winding up a little more till it looked more correct according to the diagrams - turned on ig and nothing.
Walked away thinking thats odd. Went back with a cuppa scratching head and did a double check.
The two wires that come from the pump - well in screwing it up this last time i'd snapped the point of solder from the one that fits the main pole (that also holds the cover cap on).
Stripped the end of the wire and put a tester croc clip lead on there and BINGO tick tick tick !
At idle it is operating once every 4 seconds - so thats going to be enough fuel for popping to the shops at least!
If i hold some revs on there about once per second so guessing its maybe not screwed on far enough?
Anyway theres a good strong spark there on both tabs, so a nifty bit of soldering is required.

It only pumps as required - against the back pressure on the diaphragm - so just solder that wire up and off you go.

Well i'm certainly going to save up for a new one, then renovate that one at leisure on the bench.
Will put this one down to experience.... in all honesty i dont think the old points had 3 or 4 hundred miles left in them and also think they or the pretty dirty fuel filter were resposible for it cutting out on me twice on the main road flat out for 5 miles.
Were it not for that, would have got a replacement as a starting point.
Live and learn as they say