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She won't start :(

Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 11:46 am
by moffys_owner
Hi,

My Moggy of 11 years is having a number of 'senior moments'! Which is not helping as I have moved house and have a new job, don't know anyone round here and am far away from my usual sources of Moggy knowledge - especially those who would come and sort stuff for me - are 2 hours away :-?

Last week I replced the radiator, Top Hose, Bottom Hose and by-pass hose due to a severly leaking by-passs hose.

Now she won't start. I figured the battery did not have enough juice but I charged it last night and she still wouldn't go. The engine turns but will not 'take'. This problem has started over the last couple of weeks but eventually she would go. And once she's going it's fine, no problems, even if I stop briefly and start again.

I tried the WD40, I've wiggled the spark plugs and had the dizzy cap off, I've hit the starter motor (!) the fuel pump seems to be fine (especially as it floods if I try to start for too long with the choke out) and it all sounds fine but just won't take.... HEELLPP!!

Bex:)

Also the speedo jumps around - gives a vague impression of what speed you're going but is a bit diconcerting! It gets worse at higher speeds. - any ideas?

Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 11:59 am
by DanRodd
have you used the starting handle?have you cleaned your points?
how much juice is there in the battery,if enough to spin the engine easily then clean your points.
if you know you have fue lthen check for a spark.

regarding your speedo this is likely to be a worn out cable,buy a new one.

Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 12:02 pm
by dunketh
Sounds like a weak spark to me. Easiest answer is to replace cap, leads and plugs. Only take 20 minutes.
Its a little wasteful and its not clever - but these parts are so cheap (around £13 for the lot) in the service kit its hardly worth trying to trace the problem.

Its very difficult to diagnose these kind of things as often you get a spark at each plug, and you get petrol but still no 'bang'.

Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 12:12 pm
by Welung666
Hi Bex and welcome. I you add your location in to your profile there may be a regular board member just around the corner who could offer some assistance.

Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 12:14 pm
by bmcecosse
Sounds like it all got wet with the leaking bypass hose. So - take off dizzy cap and clean everything in there very carefully - even take inside and dry out in a warmish oven. Clean and dry the rotor arm too. If you are able to check the contact points gap - do so and set it to 15 thou. Also check the little carbon brush in the top centre of the dizzy cap is there - and is springy. Also take the spark plugs out and clean them and dry them - (or fit new ones if these are ancient) - it could just be now that the thing is horribly flooded. After doing all that - try again!

Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 2:19 pm
by moffys_owner
Hi

Thanks for all the advice - that's my evening planned :)

I live between Bath and Bristol - and have already visited Charles Ware - twice (very friendly bods)! They ran me over a water pump gasket when that became apparent it was the only way to fit the by-pass hose :D I shall persevere.

Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 6:41 pm
by simmitc
The first thing is to establish if it IS a spark problem. Remove all the spark plugs so that the engine can spin freely without compression. Now remove the lead from the centre of the distributor but leave the other end attached to the coil. Wedge the free end so that the metal contact is close to the engine block but not touching it. Now with the ignition ON, operate the starter. If you do not get a spark from the lead to the engine then suspect condenser, points, and coil. It is also worth checking that you have 12 volts to the low tension (white lead) to the coil (with ignition on) and that the black and white lead is connected from the other low tension terminal to the distributer.

If you do get a spark then (ignition OFF) reconnect the lead to the centre of the distributer and select one of the other leads to again wedge near the block, switch on and repeat the cranking test. The spark will be less frequent (1 in 4 against the coil test). If no spark then change the rotor arm and/or the distributer cap.

Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2007 11:14 pm
by moffys_owner
Hi,

Quick update. Apparently she just doesn't like mornings! I get home every afternoon and she starts first time, no choke, no problems. I guess the mist that swirls around Bitton isn't conducive with trying to get anywhere - now I'm just trying to establish if this weather is normal around here!

I have tried all the usual damp things and nothing works (I tried for an hour this morning) and then when I get home she starts fine. So I guess i just have to plan any journeys for the afternoon - and people try to tell you cars don't have a sense of humour! :)

Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 7:50 am
by chickenjohn
I think your leads and cap need replacing (as stated above), what is happening is the leads/ cap have become porous (leads especially- if old they may be perished and crack). In the misty morning, water condenses onto the old leads- the spark current is lost to earth via cracks in the leads and damp and the car does not start. By afternoon, everything has dried and the car starts as there is now a spark at the plugs.-

change those leads!

Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 8:17 am
by Orkney
Have to agree with the logic of what CJ said there - what condition are the leads in?
In the past on other cars when have been more skint than now have bodged leads. If you take one off and give it a wash with a green scourer and some washing up liquid you'll see if they are dirty or not. if they are covered in grime that can attract and hold moisture.
You can fix them once if they are not cracked, wash clean and dry one at a time, clean dizzy cap too, then once refitted spray with damp start ignition sealer.
It really will water proof it but it forms a varnish like seal so once you remove them again you break that seal. Dont know what a set of leads costs but expect a can of that stuff is a fiver so probably false economy. If you can afford it get a set of twin core leads, will make a noticable difference to iffy starting.

Bitton ! know it well ! dampness & mist depends how close you are to the river level.

Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 11:07 am
by moffys_owner
Right, will do the lead thing - I am right next to the river - My car is parked about 1m away and 3m up, genius!

Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 11:22 am
by Orkney
Whilst your at it clean the outside of the dizzy in the sink too - that can get cruddy.

used to keep a boat not very far from you - have been along the river at the helm with just my head poking out the top of the mist - well steam layer really you get in spring and autumn when the air water temp difference is quite varied in the mornings and evenings.
That can actually get quite high and fill the valley so to speak - quite something to see from the air if you happen to be going over at the right time.
Things get very covered in a layer of condensation quite quickly, used to be murder with the boat.
Worth keeping your fuel tank full not empty too for that reason.