Morris Minor Owners Club

Ive finally finished the offside sill section, im a bit dissapointed about how untidy the welds make it look, but at the end of the day the kick-plate covers them all up........what do you guys think?
http://s166.photobucket.com/albums/u118 ... Sept07.jpg
ttp://s166.photobucket.com/albums/u118/yamahafs1e/?action=view&current=Sill3Sept07.jpg
http://s166.photobucket.com/albums/u118 ... Sept07.jpg
Ive now started cracking on on the nearside, starting from the back, the boot floor first, the old crap was all cut out and i have fabricated a new plate to go in, hopefully ill get that welded in tommorrow!
Heres the hole:
http://s166.photobucket.com/albums/u118 ... Sept07.jpg
And heres the plate i made to go in it!:
http://s166.photobucket.com/albums/u118 ... Sept07.jpg

YG

Very neat work with the plate!. Your welding is well up to MOT standard.

Keep up the good work

That welding looks pretty good to me, just the odd bit of pidgeon poo where the MIG nozzle speed changed. You could dress the weld back with a flap disc in the grinder, but as you say, the kickplates cover it all up anyway. Main thing is it looks solid, but I would seam seal the weld to fill in the odd gap or two. Welding at a 90 degree join is one of the toughest welds to do, as you cannot easily zig zag the MIG nozzle. That's why good old fashioned GAS welding is so good for sills

its looking good! make sure you get your rust prevention thoroughly sorted so that it stays that way! zinc primer and waxoyl would be my recommendation.

Rust prevention eh well the whole cars going to have a large number of coats of Zinc primer.
The underside is going to be plastered in the stuff, followed by chassis black and then waxoyl!

Not easy to get all the welding neat, but it can be fettled to look even. It may be out of sight, but as the artist said when asked why he painted the bottom of a cube, 'I know it's there!'

That welding is good! Better than many MOT garages and at least as good as mine.

As MT said above, welds can be tidied with a flap wheel or abrasive disc in a grinder, I use the plastic backing and 36 grit zirconium pads. Then, after zinc primer, you can use overpaintable seam sealer to seal and smooth out the weld- that makes it look a lot neater when the top coat has been painted over.

Your welding is well up to MOT standard.

Given the cowboy MOT garages that have welded my various cars over the years that could be taken as an insult.

That looks spot on! Proper nice seams.

Really top job there - and that album of pictures is a very useful archive for anyone else to refer to when doing these jobs. I've certainly saved it to my favourites. Well done !

Thanks for all the kind words people! Hopefully ill be starting work on the rear spring hanger tomorrow....pictures to follow!

dunketh wrote:

Your welding is well up to MOT standard.

Given the cowboy MOT garages that have welded my various cars over the years that could be taken as an insult.

That was my first thought! Comparing that to the quality job the "specialist" did on my Midget I'd say there's absolutely no reason to be disappointed...

Right, i started on the rear spring hanger today!

http://s166.photobucket.com/albums/u118 ... Sept07.jpg
http://s166.photobucket.com/albums/u118 ... t07002.jpg

Hope you have a measured size to locate it correctly. I have a feeling when my Trav was done (long before my time) the hanger location is not quite correct - even with new springs it sits quite low.

Looking good that man. Good solid metal to weld to helps. Keep up the good work.