Hi All,
My 1970 4 door saloon requires a respray, in an effort to save cash (and keep the wife happy) I am thinking of carrying out the pre-spray prep myself, my questions therefore are:
a. Is it something an enthusiastic amatuer can do easily?
b. How do I go about it - my local library does not have any books on the subject.
All thoughts and tips gratefully received.
PRE-RESPRAY PREPARATION
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That's the hard work - and the important part. Basics are detailed in every haynes. Main thing is to eliminate ALL rust - and fill any blemishes. Decide if keeping the screen in - or removing it - best job is removed of course, but budget for a new seal when refitting. And - make sure you get a firm quote (cash and timescale) for the spray job well in advance!! If you have covered storage - it's not too difficult to spray it yourself - but of course there are all sorts of Health & Safety implications which you need to take into account!
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youngun
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I recommend getting hold of " The car bodywork Repair manual" By lindsay porter. its published by Haynes, theres always a copy on ebay.
It pretty much explains everything in detail that you need to know about bodywork from welding to body soldering, from spraying to panel beating.
Well worth getting!
YG
It pretty much explains everything in detail that you need to know about bodywork from welding to body soldering, from spraying to panel beating.
Well worth getting!
YG
Ultimate rust cure for your moggy....paint it brown, at least that way you dont notice the rust as much!!
This is written for the DIY home jobbie using 2k paint. we cant all afford spray booths and expensive equipment. this is for the budget job and can be just as good as a professional job
---------------------------------------
preparation
- 75% of the work is in the prep
- you want to get all your surfaces prepped to at least 800 grade wet and dry all over, free of any rougher scratches, imperfections etc.
-All surfaces must be completely grease free!
This is highly important, wet and dry with a bucket of water , and then wipe completely clean with a new cloth. Also make sure your hands are grease free, and i mean even touching sweaty skin will have polluted your hands so go wash them again!!!
- Mask off everything your not spraying within a few meters on the car. Overspray gets everywhere if your heavy on the trigger and will mean a lot of t-cutting off at a later date if you get it.
- if your spraying in doors make sure the floor is dust free, if in doubt get a wet brooom and sweep about, this will prevent dust rising and will trap any dust that gets in the air
-Heat is always good, warm your panel prior to painting with either a heat gun or heater. Dont go mad, warm is enough!
Spraying
- Firstly plan you route around the panel, you want to try and get all the hard to reach areas first, ie down tight gaps or places low to the ground.
- use the air blower on your spray gun to remove any new dust (and flies in my case) off the panel before starting.
- I find the best mix for 2k paint is 4 parts paint / 4 parts activator / 1 part thinners. This way its not to runny but enough to settle reasonably smooth on drying
- the first coat should be a fine mistly coat just to prime your panel up for the next thicker coat. dont go mad just a fine colored mist, be quick on the trigger and set your gun to a lower pressure with a relatively high fan. If your prep work wasnt very good youl see it at this stage before wasting all your paint.
- do all the edges of your panel first and then concentrate on small areas at a time, i often spray myself a little box and then fill it in, this way i can keep track on how many layers are on each section.
- you want to be swift and confident with the gun, do not just hold the trigger and spray you WILL get runs, you want to come off the trigger whenever your arm movement stops, only spray whilst your arms in motion. you can spray from a fixed point with little burst on the trigger.
- dont rush! let each coat cure a while before overspraying it, especially in cooler conditions
- repeat over the whole panel until your satisfied that the paint is not thin anywhere, 2 good coats is usually enough.
- be careful not to drag your airline in paint whilst leaning over the panel. Its buggered if you do Very Happy and you will have to let it dry and re-prep it. hang it over your shoulder if your struggling
- do NOT touch and leave to dry for at least half hour before applying and pearl or lacquer coats.
- i mix the lacquer as i do the paint but with a tad more thinners. This prevents it looking like orange peel on drying and helps it settle more smoothly. but be warned as it is thinned down it is more likely to run so be careful
- 2 coats of lacquer is usually enough, spray in the same manner you would paint, paying initial attention on the hard to reach areas.
- if you do have any flies/dust/debris settle in at this stage dont try and pick it out youl make it worse just let it dry and sort it out later...
Making good
- Right you've left it to dry for a good 24 hours, now you can unmask it Razz when removing the tape pull away from the paintwork slowly as it will stop any paint pulling off the panel (it shouldn't anyway if you prepped it right)
- for best results 1200 the panel all over lubricating with t-cut and basically buff the it out of it until your happy. This will also remove any debris that may have settled on the surface... bit of work and they've gone
---------------------------------------
preparation
- 75% of the work is in the prep
- you want to get all your surfaces prepped to at least 800 grade wet and dry all over, free of any rougher scratches, imperfections etc.
-All surfaces must be completely grease free!
This is highly important, wet and dry with a bucket of water , and then wipe completely clean with a new cloth. Also make sure your hands are grease free, and i mean even touching sweaty skin will have polluted your hands so go wash them again!!!
- Mask off everything your not spraying within a few meters on the car. Overspray gets everywhere if your heavy on the trigger and will mean a lot of t-cutting off at a later date if you get it.
- if your spraying in doors make sure the floor is dust free, if in doubt get a wet brooom and sweep about, this will prevent dust rising and will trap any dust that gets in the air
-Heat is always good, warm your panel prior to painting with either a heat gun or heater. Dont go mad, warm is enough!
Spraying
- Firstly plan you route around the panel, you want to try and get all the hard to reach areas first, ie down tight gaps or places low to the ground.
- use the air blower on your spray gun to remove any new dust (and flies in my case) off the panel before starting.
- I find the best mix for 2k paint is 4 parts paint / 4 parts activator / 1 part thinners. This way its not to runny but enough to settle reasonably smooth on drying
- the first coat should be a fine mistly coat just to prime your panel up for the next thicker coat. dont go mad just a fine colored mist, be quick on the trigger and set your gun to a lower pressure with a relatively high fan. If your prep work wasnt very good youl see it at this stage before wasting all your paint.
- do all the edges of your panel first and then concentrate on small areas at a time, i often spray myself a little box and then fill it in, this way i can keep track on how many layers are on each section.
- you want to be swift and confident with the gun, do not just hold the trigger and spray you WILL get runs, you want to come off the trigger whenever your arm movement stops, only spray whilst your arms in motion. you can spray from a fixed point with little burst on the trigger.
- dont rush! let each coat cure a while before overspraying it, especially in cooler conditions
- repeat over the whole panel until your satisfied that the paint is not thin anywhere, 2 good coats is usually enough.
- be careful not to drag your airline in paint whilst leaning over the panel. Its buggered if you do Very Happy and you will have to let it dry and re-prep it. hang it over your shoulder if your struggling
- do NOT touch and leave to dry for at least half hour before applying and pearl or lacquer coats.
- i mix the lacquer as i do the paint but with a tad more thinners. This prevents it looking like orange peel on drying and helps it settle more smoothly. but be warned as it is thinned down it is more likely to run so be careful
- 2 coats of lacquer is usually enough, spray in the same manner you would paint, paying initial attention on the hard to reach areas.
- if you do have any flies/dust/debris settle in at this stage dont try and pick it out youl make it worse just let it dry and sort it out later...
Making good
- Right you've left it to dry for a good 24 hours, now you can unmask it Razz when removing the tape pull away from the paintwork slowly as it will stop any paint pulling off the panel (it shouldn't anyway if you prepped it right)
- for best results 1200 the panel all over lubricating with t-cut and basically buff the it out of it until your happy. This will also remove any debris that may have settled on the surface... bit of work and they've gone
-
chickenjohn
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use cellulose unless you have access to a spray booth and breathing equipment.
Here is a great site for prep/ spraying advice:-
http://www.citroen-restoration.co.uk/ds/painting.php
Here is a great site for prep/ spraying advice:-
http://www.citroen-restoration.co.uk/ds/painting.php
Cheers John - all comments IMHO
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(check out the East Kent branch website http://www.ekmm.co.uk )
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chickenjohn
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It's easy with cellulose - and much less risky - I just do one panel at a time. Problem with 2K is the extreme Health Risk. You MUST use an air fed breathing mask - no short cuts allowed - a simple P3 mask simply WILL NOT do. Otherwise you will coat your lungs with quick setting paint film - and if you survive that - run high risk of allergic asthma reaction. Don't do it!!
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chickenjohn
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been studying this lately - so say celly is getting harder to come by - but only for automotive use because of the health hazzards.
You can order as many gallons as you want for ag use though apparently - want to paint a barn e.g.
My cunning plan to date is to repaint scabby (which 60% of has been previously done & badly with a brush) using an enamel coachpaint - the more modern mix which dries more quickly.
Same stuff in fact thats used on fancy paintjobs on canal barges, showman engines etc. If it shines like that on a barge or engine and stays there, goes on with a foam roller its perfect for a tidy up on the cheap - still the same prep required though which is where the work is and no doubt the expense, fillers, pastes, stoppers etc.
least this way can do one panel at a time, very little masking required and if it goes wrong dont have to start the whole thing over
You can order as many gallons as you want for ag use though apparently - want to paint a barn e.g.
My cunning plan to date is to repaint scabby (which 60% of has been previously done & badly with a brush) using an enamel coachpaint - the more modern mix which dries more quickly.
Same stuff in fact thats used on fancy paintjobs on canal barges, showman engines etc. If it shines like that on a barge or engine and stays there, goes on with a foam roller its perfect for a tidy up on the cheap - still the same prep required though which is where the work is and no doubt the expense, fillers, pastes, stoppers etc.
least this way can do one panel at a time, very little masking required and if it goes wrong dont have to start the whole thing over
-
Coop160412
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Coop160412
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Thanks bmc...........i know the purists are going to shudder, but the links show what paint im thinking of painting the pick up in, as i need something very durable that can take the scratches ( and it will get some) as the pick up is going to be earning its keep in a small way
i quite fancy the colour of the willys jeep (centre right ) c/w the new canvas tilt i have i think it will look ok
http://www.warpaint.rrservices.co.uk/
http://www.rrservices.co.uk/warpaint.htm
ive already asked these guys a few questions, so i`d better ask about the toxic stuff too
i quite fancy the colour of the willys jeep (centre right ) c/w the new canvas tilt i have i think it will look ok
http://www.warpaint.rrservices.co.uk/
http://www.rrservices.co.uk/warpaint.htm
ive already asked these guys a few questions, so i`d better ask about the toxic stuff too
