Complete brake rebuild - what options do I have?

[Bluesman]

Guys - this 1960 2-door we´ve been working on will need a braking system very soon. Just by looking at the old rusty stuff from below/the outside, something tells me I will have to rebuild the whole razzamanazz.
The back plates will probably be the only thing left on the car.

Sample pics:




The car will be used lightly in moderate>heavy city traffic, no hilly surroundings except occasionally.

Would you be so kind to try and sort out/fill in/enhance/comment my options?
Option 1 as I see it:

I imagine I will have to buy a replacement kit (all hardware incl M/C and all/most of the piping).
Are these 1960 brakes 7" or 8" par default? I forgot to measure them while in the garage

Advantage: simple, quick work. Bolt-on, bleed and forget (for a while).
Minus: weak brakes while driving, constant worries at the Swedish MOT about uneven brakes

Who sells a complete 7" (or 8") kit? Experiences with the kit?

Option 2:

Install larger drums if these are 7"

Advantage: better brakes, almost as quick/simple (?), bleed & forget (for a while).
Minus: non-original parts on car, where to get 8" spares in the future, almost equally shoddy braking and same MOT worries.

Who sells size conversion kits? Experiences?

Option 3:

Fitting a disc system in front, keeping rear drums.

Advantage: better brakes still, even without servo. Semi-bleed & forget, only rear drums to worry about at MOT, apart from normal (easy) service of front.
Minus: probably expensive, not so easy to install, hard to find spares if "donor" is exotic (this is Sweden).

Who sells front disc kits? Experiences? (I read some about this in another thread, but it went OT quite quickly....)

All pointers and suggestions welcome.

Cheers /Richard

[bmcecosse]

I think you should survey the car very carefully for RUST before worrying about the brakes. It may be beyond economic repair - and its' a swell to decide that befoe spending money on other parts.
If just for local use - then you could stick with drum brakes although the larger 8" front drums from later cars are a lot better. All the parts are avail;able - see Bullmotif website (and many others). Be sure to specify non-rusting KUNIFER (not Copper) brake pipes - they will all need renewing. There is also a well known conversion to 9" front drums from the Wolseley 1500 - which gives very good braking indeed. Various disc kits are available - tend to be quite pricey - and if you don't plan 'hard' driving may not be worth the expense for you. Check with all the usual suspects for disc kit supplies!
But the main thing is RUST - is the car worth saving ??

[Bluesman]

Rust..of course there is rust. But surprisingly enuff, very little, and in relatively few places.

Rust doesn´t scare me, if it´s just reasonably visible. I fixed up a few rusty wrecks in my day....VW split-window 1965, numerous Japs...

The entire floor area looks intact, there´s a bit here and there at the outer edges that look so-so, and some cross-sections (like where the torsion bars are mounted) look in bad shape, but not beyond salvation. 1 small hole in the engine room, (bottom left front, where bumper enters chassis, and 2 more weak-looking sections under the rear bonnet (inside, below spare wheel compartment, closest to the outer back panel) The car has been welded on and there is some not-so-beautiful welding been done, but I have the feeling it is still relatively sound, metal-wise. I will take your advice, though, and have a go at it with a knife and pointed hammer later this week, making notes and taking pics as I go.


The body itself is in reasonably good shape. Interior is OK-ish, no sign of rot under the carpets etc (so far).

And there´s no turning back. We have the car, for better or worse. Need to make something roadworthy out of it. It deserves to see daylight again. /R

[Orkney]

front drums from the Wolseley 1500

[Orkney]

If the fronts are 7's change for 8's - migth as well whilst you are there.
Not long ago did mine and wish I'd done the whole lot in one to start with.
It had next to zero brakes, so went through bit by bit. Only thing never replaced was the MC and the drums.
Now all is working and the new shoes are beginning to bed in it became obvious that most of the drums were oval and badly worn so the new ones will go on this weekend.
Adjustment really isnt too bad with new everything - wouldn't worry about that MOT wise, in proper working order they really are quite good - I wouldn't upgrade them.
Some of the parts companies occasionally offer a 'do your brakes' set - comprising everything and saving some money, alas if your going for drums too the delivery will be crippling - ive shopped around for some bits from here and some from there as have a real problem with being ripped off for offshore post costs.
Be glad to send you links to the suppliers I browse through, worth looking to save a euro

[eastona]

I do 50 miles a day on b roads in my 4 door 5 days a week, the brakes take quite a hammering, but are adequate for all but the most spirited driving.

I say go with the 'standard' 8" brakes. As long as they're bedded in, bled and adjusted, they're fine. Usually pass the MOT first time.
Andrew

[Peetee]

Quote:
front drums from the Wolseley 1500

Oh yes indeed. Particularly popular in Scotland - so I understand

[dunketh]

I replaced all my drum components over the space of about 12 months.

Luckily the master cylinder, pipework and drums themselves were all fine so didn't need replacing.

By replacing all my wheel cylinders, front and rear and flushing the system til it was passing nice brand new clear fluid I've easily doubled the effectiveness of my brakes!

Its actually surprising how well they do work given the whole negative image towards drums in the popular motoring world.

The only problem I suffer is occasional overheating and the terrible fishy smell that goes with it. This is partly due to the 1275 engine which allows me to go a bit faster but mostly due to my over-zealous driving style.

So, if it weren't yet obvious I'm recomending the first, cheapest and easiest option - rebuild what you've got!

[chickenjohn]

Yes, with a standard car, standard drums brakes are fine- looking at those pics, I would replace all the pipes and wheel cylinders front and rear. (Will also get your handbrake working with new rear cylinders.)

[Bluesman]

OK - I will rebuild what I have. Thanks for the advice, guys!

Need to investigate for a supplier that will sell a complete "kit" at a decent price plus decent shipping..*looking hard*

Orkney - I´d be happy to receive what you have, PM me please?
TIA!

Cheers /Richard

[JustinMinor1000]

Hi .. When this was discussed before there was a general consensus that the best option for the master cylinder is to buy a Lockheed one and not a pattern one. The wheel cylinders (so went the argument) were not such a big deal because of their low cost and ease of repair whereas, the master cylinder can be a big deal.

My advice would be to do the whole shebang together and replace the bushes with poly bushes. (As a job I've done three times already I have a couple of tips for this one) .

I was sitting around in Copenhagen two weeks ago waitig for the weather (doing a film for the Danish Vehicle Inspectorate) if that happens again I'll come and give you a hand