Engine swap completed - now no clutch

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adritch
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Engine swap completed - now no clutch

Post by adritch »

Installed a replacement 1098 engine and box into my SII over the weekend. Sorted out the alternator and missfiring issues today, so engine is running nicely.

Was looking forward to my inaugural run, but I have no clutch. When I put the gearbox in and connected up the clutch linkage it seem ludicrously light. Now I find that the only pressure is the clutch return spring.

Is it possible for the release bearing to have fallen out? It was sat on the bell housing end for some time.

If not, have I got a worn release bearing? I have adjusted the clutch rod as far as I can and there's nothing there.

Really quite depressed at the thought of having to drop the box out having spent a long time getting it all in.


Boo hoo. :cry:
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adritch
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Post by adritch »

Adding to the above. Have just disconected the clutch rod and return spring, and I can move the fork towards the rear all the way without it engaging on the pressure plate.

What's going on, surely even a worn release bearing would have some contact?
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dunketh
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Post by dunketh »

The 1098 box has a different clutch release fork to the earlier one. Its probably been mixed up and not reaching the pressure plate.
Box (or engine) out is the only answer I fear. :(

Same thing happened to me when I tried using the 1275 MG clutch with the minor 1098 gearbox.

Worn bearing won't cause this. You can still actuate the clutch with the fork itself when the bearing's all but disintegrated - I've done that too. :roll:
Very unlikely for it to fall out also, provided the clips were installed correctly.

If I were you I'd pull the engine. Dropping a gearbox is a pain whereas engines are nice and easy - you're not required to lie on your back, head on the road.
What would Macgyver do..?
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adritch
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Post by adritch »

Guess that's what happens when you buy stuff of ebay.

Supposed to be a 1098 engine and box. Is there anyway to tell that it is definately that? i.e. that I haven't got a 948 engine and 1098 box or vice versa.

Gearbox has the remote gear change.

Think that I'll have to take the box out. Engine crane has gon back to the hire shop and really not sure I can face taking the front of the car off again.

Think I'd rather scrabble around on my back.

Rather it had just worked though. Not sure me spending another weekend on it will go down so well. Got stuff to do around the house.....
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picky
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Post by picky »

have a look inside the access holes in the gearbox, where the clutch lever goes in,(remove the rubber cover) just to see what is going on before taking the engine out.
1969 Four door Saloon Old English White 1275 with ported head and HS4 carb. Wolseley 1500 front brakes. Currently off the road with a leaky master cylinder!
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adritch
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Post by adritch »

I presum I'll need to take the tunnel cover off to do that, or can it be seen from the engine bay?
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Stig
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Post by Stig »

Isn't the 948 box a smooth casting and the 1098 box a ribbed casting?

The engine number should tell you if it's 948 or 1098. (waits for someone knowledgeable to come along and say how)
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dunketh
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Post by dunketh »

Yup! 1098 and 1275 (mg) boxes have ribs all over em. If its smooth you've been had.

Could be the seller quickly bunged it all together from parts in order to sell as a complete 'set' and chucked the wrong clutch/pressure plate in the mix.
Its easily done.
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picky
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Post by picky »

you can see the access holes by looking from underneath the car, one of the holes will have the clutch lever going through it. nothing needs to be taken apart.
1969 Four door Saloon Old English White 1275 with ported head and HS4 carb. Wolseley 1500 front brakes. Currently off the road with a leaky master cylinder!
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dunketh
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Post by dunketh »

Can we assume the other access hole is directly opposite?

(for clutch use with LHD cars)
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adritch
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Post by adritch »

Ah, that rubber bit. Ok, off to crawl under car right now.

Oh for a nice big garage with a 2 post and 4 post lift. Would have had the box out by now.

It has got ribs on, so is a 1098 box, hopefully I'll be able to see what's going on.
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adritch
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Post by adritch »

Ok, thrust bearing is in there and looks to be in ok nick. BUT, it's getting no where near the clutch. I mean it's at least an inch or more even at it's closest.

So have I got a 948 engine/clutch and 1098 box? Very confused now. How do I tell from the engine number what type of engine I have?

Thanks for the help with this query.
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picky
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Post by picky »

Can we assume the other access hole is directly opposite?
yes on all the gearboxes I have seen (several 1275 and 1098)

Well you might have the incorrect clutch lever in there, but there could be some other part of the clutch pedal mechanism that is not right. how far does the clutch lever reach when you disconnect the clutch screwed rod from the clutch fork? this should be fairly easy from underneath the car also.
1969 Four door Saloon Old English White 1275 with ported head and HS4 carb. Wolseley 1500 front brakes. Currently off the road with a leaky master cylinder!
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adritch
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Post by adritch »

Ok, so at least I have ascertained that I have got a 1098 engine. Was a bit worried I'd been sold a 948 as a 1098.

So presume then that the problem must be the clutch fork. Suppose the only way to tell is to take the gearbox off. I'll try taking some photos and see if that helps at all to identify any likely cause.

Is it possible that someone has put one the incorrect clutch?
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picky
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Post by picky »

before removing the engine and box, check if the lever moves up to the clutch cover with the clutch rod disconnected, if there is something wrong with the clutch pedal setup (eg not enough travel) then it wont be releasing the clutch, and you will have the same problem when you put the engine back in!
1969 Four door Saloon Old English White 1275 with ported head and HS4 carb. Wolseley 1500 front brakes. Currently off the road with a leaky master cylinder!
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adritch
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Post by adritch »

No, even with the clutch linkage disconected I can't get the release bearing to meet the clutch.

So I guess two potential issues:

1 - wrong release bearing fork.
2 - wrong clutch (?)

How do I work out which one? And I presume no way to do it without taking the gearbox out?
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picky
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Post by picky »

Ok so unfortunately its engine out to have a look. Maybe you could post a few pics of the clutch when you get the engine and gearbox split, the combined knowledge of MMOC members should be able to work out what combination of parts you are using. If you have no online webspace to host the images I can host them for you..

But sounds like wrong/damaged clutch fork or clutch cover.

Picky
1969 Four door Saloon Old English White 1275 with ported head and HS4 carb. Wolseley 1500 front brakes. Currently off the road with a leaky master cylinder!
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bmcecosse
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Post by bmcecosse »

It can only be the wrong fork - or wrong flywheel/clutch that is on the engine. What engine did you have in your car before - can you compare parts with that?
And you say you know it is a 1098 engine - how do you 'know' that ? The ribbed case tells you it is a 1098 box - but are you sure it's a 1098 engine ?
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adritch
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Post by adritch »

The engine number starts 10V, which I understand to be a 1098 from a van.

Previous engine was an 803, so I presume that most things will be different there.

Suppose I'll have to hire an engine crane again. Mind you, had the help of my brother in law last weekend to take it out. If I have to do that again this weekend, it'll be me with the odd bit of assistance from my wife.

Ho hum. Learned somthing I suppose. Next time I buy an engine and box which are seperate I'll mate them and CHECK things work before putting the ruddy thing in.
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picky
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Post by picky »

yup, you will never make the same mistake again!!

Picky
1969 Four door Saloon Old English White 1275 with ported head and HS4 carb. Wolseley 1500 front brakes. Currently off the road with a leaky master cylinder!
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