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Pattern Swivel pin quality
Posted: Sat Aug 25, 2007 10:33 pm
by winger300
Are the exchange units from ESM/Bullmotif of good quality? or should I go for the MOWOG parts?
I don't expect to get the steering arms off the old ones, and the cheaper pattern swivel pins come with them already fitted, the MOWOG part doesn't.
Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2007 8:18 am
by aupickup
they are fine,
Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2007 9:57 am
by kennatt
the steering arms a easy to get off using this method place the unit so that the domed part of the unit is on something solid(Concret floor) after undoing the nut get a big hammer 5lb club and stike the unit above the point where the arm goes, through several time(You will not damage the unit) keep hitting it until you see the arm move away from the unit .you will see a gap at the joint.Then simply tap out the steering arm.Have done several this way works ,every time. The arm is on a taper and pops out the same as a track rod end does with a good hit
Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2007 10:14 am
by jonathon
Go for genuine MOWOG. The cheaper versions are metal sprayed and if you cover average milage,drive enthusiastically or have a modified minor they will not last very long.
Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2007 12:52 pm
by winger300
Do the steering arms fit easily to the new Swivel pin? or it worth just buying new steering arms and saving the bother and hassle?
Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2007 12:56 pm
by jonathon
They should fit easily enough, just make sure you fit the woodruff key correctly, Use plenty of copper ease when assembling. If a nyloc nut has been used on the seering arm then replace this on re fitting.

Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2007 4:14 pm
by winger300
Thanks for the advice. I just tried using kennatt's method, but after a lot of serious beating the steering arm hasn't moved at all, not even enough to break the rust around the joint! Maybe I'm just not hitting it hard enough, but I've almost flattened the swivel leg and left a hole in the concrete!
I think I'll get a new steering arm.
Should Swivel pins be replaced on both sides? or is it ok to replace a single if the other isn't in too bad shape? The one I removed so far had a good square thread on the top trunnion, but the bottom trunnion seized when trying to unscrew it.... which is probably due to the lower trunnion pivot pin being seized in the trunnion, it looks like its been that way for a while, and in turn its totally worn through one side of the eyebolt bush and into the eyebolt itself.
If the other side is ok, no need to replace it right?
Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2007 4:57 pm
by alex_holden
Try heating it with a blowtorch before trying to knock it out.
Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2007 5:15 pm
by winger300
Dont have one unfortunately
What's the purpose of the woodruff key?
Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2007 5:19 pm
by alex_holden
winger300 wrote:Dont have one unfortunately

What's the purpose of the woodruff key?
It stops it rotating.
Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2007 9:55 pm
by bmcecosse
And yes - just renew the side that's worn!
Posted: Mon Aug 27, 2007 8:54 am
by kennatt
if the beating with a hammer fails,and the leg is scrap,to salvage the arm use a grinder and cut through the leg above the arm.Stop before you get right through to avoid damaging the arm. Use a thickish cold chisel and same big hammer and split the leg,then the arm should just about fall out.I hate throwing good bits away.Maybe thats why I cant get my car into my double garage,full of old bits and pieces salvaged overs the years

can;t remember what 90% of them are from now
