Rust Prevention ?

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bmcecosse
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Rust Prevention ?

Post by bmcecosse »

This system is on sale at Canadian Tire for ~£100 at the moment.
What does the panel think ??? http://www.counteractcpr.com/
Last edited by bmcecosse on Sat Aug 25, 2007 5:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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RogerRust
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Post by RogerRust »

what system would that be Roy?
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bmcecosse
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Post by bmcecosse »

Sorry RR - for some reason the link didn't take - I think it's there now !
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Willie
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anti corrosion

Post by Willie »

Crikey! That is the most long winded blurb I have ever read! It may be designed to leave the reader so punch drunk that they surrender and order it. If it is that good I failed to see any sort of guarantee. I will stick to Waxoyl thanks.
Willie
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picky
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Post by picky »

looks like it would work, but if it was as good as it claims to be we would have people all over the country raving about it, which they are not :o
1969 Four door Saloon Old English White 1275 with ported head and HS4 carb. Wolseley 1500 front brakes. Currently off the road with a leaky master cylinder!
bmcecosse
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Post by bmcecosse »

It seems they generate a high DC voltage, connect -ve to the car body and +ve to little insulated pads which are stuck to the body at various points. Thus there is a 'capacitive' effect - which they say stops rust forming!! I'm certainly not convinced - was hoping someone more up on electrochemistry would chime in with an opinion!
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chickenjohn
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Post by chickenjohn »

Sounds like an absolute load of rubbish to me. Pseudo science. Trading standards should get involved. I'm not that up on electrochemistry but have studied it when I did my degree in chemistry. For rusting, think of it like a fire triangle- you need three things, iron, air and water (analogous to fuel, oxygen and heat). Break the triangle and you stop rust forming- remove any rust present , use zinc primer followed by a top coat then an underbody wax protection to keep air and water from the steel.
Cheers John - all comments IMHO
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chickenjohn
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Post by chickenjohn »

"So the system operates by applying one of the principles of electrochemistry - that an oxidation reaction can be slowed or retarded by creating a surplus of electrons to the metal from a supplementary source. That means that every possible seam, spot-weld, bolt, screw or panel that's earthed to the vehicle is protected from corrosion by this surplus of electrons."

A "surplus of electrons????" that means the vehicle will be negatively charged and may give off sparks, not good when filling the tank with petrol. :o
paulhumphries
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Post by paulhumphries »

Slightly OT I've seen this and am going to give it a try during the rebuild of my Minor-
http://www.zinga-uk.com/zinga_main.html

This is also supposed to be the same type of product -
http://www.zrcworldwide.com/

Even then it'll have Dinatrol in all cavities :)

Paul Humphries
chickenjohn
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Post by chickenjohn »

Any heavy can of Zinc rich primer (90% zinc) will do the same thing. Just buy it from your local paint factors, about £15-20 a litre. Use as a primer with a decent top coat of your choice.
paulhumphries
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Post by paulhumphries »

chickenjohn wrote:Any heavy can of Zinc rich primer (90% zinc) will do the same thing. Just buy it from your local paint factors, about £15-20 a litre. Use as a primer with a decent top coat of your choice.
True but did you read the full blurb about Zinga ?
It's a proper cold galv finish and not just a zinc rich paint - plus needs no top coat .

Paul Humphries
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Post by M25VAN »

[quote="paulhumphries"]Slightly OT I've seen this and am going to give it a try during the rebuild of my Minor-
http://www.zinga-uk.com/zinga_main.html

Paul Humphries[/quote]

I looked at this Paul, Frosts sell it but I think it needs quite specific surface preparation. I'm going for Por-15 on mine.
chickenjohn
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Post by chickenjohn »

paulhumphries wrote:
chickenjohn wrote:Any heavy can of Zinc rich primer (90% zinc) will do the same thing. Just buy it from your local paint factors, about £15-20 a litre. Use as a primer with a decent top coat of your choice.
True but did you read the full blurb about Zinga ?
It's a proper cold galv finish and not just a zinc rich paint - plus needs no top coat .

Paul Humphries
Yes, I did, it reads like its an expensive, finely ground Zinc rich primer! Still, it will work I'm sure and be a better bet than any "electrical" system. BTW, it does recommend a top coat even over the Zinga. personally, I would use it as a primer, then top coat, then wax protection.
Cheers John - all comments IMHO
- Come to this years Kent branches Hop rally! http://www.kenthop.co.uk
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grant69
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Post by grant69 »

I got electronic rest proofing supplied on my new Suzuki 4wd several years ago, they offer a lifetime guarantee on the whole vehicle body and chassis, so I'll let you know in a few more years if it really works, they fit it to alot of new cars over here, and I haven't heard a bad report yet
youngun
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Post by youngun »

Its funny really, you can increase the life of your car by simply changing the earth to negative.............we did some electrolysis experiments a while back and found that if the positie charge had to go through the metal object rather than a wire, the metal object detriorated quicker than if it had a negative charge going through it!
Ultimate rust cure for your moggy....paint it brown, at least that way you dont notice the rust as much!!
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Post by chickenjohn »

Thats not quite right- positive charge cannot flow through metals, the positive charge would be the metal ions themselves and that can only occur if the metal is in solution. Positive earth does not mean +ve charge flows. Electricity is electrons and in a negative or +ve car its still electrons that flow. Electrons are -ve charged and the + or- earth only signifies the direction of flow of electricity through the body of the car between the battery terminals.
bmcecosse
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Post by bmcecosse »

Well - indeed the change to -ve earth was done for corrosion purposes - but it 'doesn't work like that' as you are suggesting youngun!! You are confusing 'charge' and 'current'.
The system now on sale at CT is different again - it makes the car body into a capacitor with -ve charge on the shell relative to the +ve charge on the sticky pads - but whether this helps prevent corrosion or not, I have no idea !
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chickenjohn
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Post by chickenjohn »

I think you would have to cover the whole car with the sticky pads for it to work. Otherwise, no.
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