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Flipping lock nut

Posted: Sun Aug 05, 2007 7:31 pm
by sansom
Ok, is it just me or does anyone else have seized nuts! No double-ententres intended!

Just trying to replace a steering rack gaiter...looked like a straightforward job but nooo....the locknut onto the trackrod end is either seized or I'm being a dimwit. :( Is this normal?
(I mean it being seized, not me being a dimwit...which is normal.)

It picks up a lot of muck there I guess so I'm not suprised but I can't get it undone. Any ideas? I've tried easing oil & WD40 and careful blows with a hammer...not having a pit or lift I can't apply much leverage.

And why do none of the spanners/sockets I have fit the moggy! Did they use a lot of n/32 nuts at BMC?

frustrated of Cambridge,
[dave] :(

Posted: Sun Aug 05, 2007 7:38 pm
by bigginger
Yes, it's normal, and none of your spanners fit because they're metric, I'm guessing. Try whitworth and AF and you'll get further. There are plenty of people here who can tell you specifically what you need if you tell us what nut/bolt you're working on. What's n/32, btw? Not heard of that

Posted: Sun Aug 05, 2007 7:41 pm
by Welung666
bigginger wrote:What's n/32, btw?
It's like my 9/16" adjustable cutting torch :lol:

Posted: Sun Aug 05, 2007 7:46 pm
by bigginger
D'you think s/he meant 9/16 then? It was a grnuine question - thought I'd discovered a new standard...

Posted: Sun Aug 05, 2007 7:47 pm
by sansom
Ah good :) not just me then.

I've got the usual mix of imperial & metric spanner from sets - just the basic sort of thing - 11/16", 7/8", 1/2", etc - I wondered if BMC used sizes measured in 1/32" - that would explain why none of my imerial ones fit.

Posted: Sun Aug 05, 2007 7:50 pm
by Matt
Some are whitworth too ;)

Posted: Sun Aug 05, 2007 8:06 pm
by aupickup
that nut is 5/8 if i remember from yesterday
they should come off ok, try a blowtorch that often cures all

Posted: Sun Aug 05, 2007 8:17 pm
by Alec
Hello Dave,

another thing that is worth doing is to wire brush the threads clean and then apply Plus Gas to the threads and leave for a while. A good fitting quality spanner is essential, and don't be afraid to hit it, preferably with a copper hammer.

Alec

PS, not too many scientific people responding on this forum as the n\32" proves :-)

Posted: Sun Aug 05, 2007 8:21 pm
by Welung666
So my 9/16" adjustable cutting torch isn't scientific? :lol: :lol: :lol:

Sloppy Gear Change

Posted: Sun Aug 05, 2007 8:27 pm
by arcangelo
Hi I have looking on the site of the SLOPPY GEAR CHANGE can someone tell me where is possible to find the items for a 1098cc. and the instruction.
Thank you in advance
Pierangelo

Posted: Sun Aug 05, 2007 8:34 pm
by sansom
Matt wrote:Some are whitworth too ;)
So are Whitworth different sizes to the typical imperial jobbies (AF?) in my spanner set?

Posted: Sun Aug 05, 2007 8:43 pm
by sansom
Alec wrote:Hello Dave,

another thing that is worth doing is to wire brush the threads clean and then apply Plus Gas to the threads and leave for a while. A good fitting quality spanner is essential, and don't be afraid to hit it, preferably with a copper hammer.

Alec

PS, not too many scientific people responding on this forum as the n\32" proves :-)
Tried the wirebrush, etc. Not got any Plus Gas so used 3-in-1 penetrating oil...rubbish stuff!

I would have tried the blowtorch suggestion but I haven't got one of those either....does that usually do the trick?

As for the n/32....I'll avoid algebra from now on ;-)

Posted: Sun Aug 05, 2007 8:51 pm
by aupickup
heat does work
i have used 3 in 1 penetrating oil / spray and found it quite good
last resort would be a nut splitter

Posted: Sun Aug 05, 2007 9:06 pm
by Matt
yer witworth have different heads and threads, they are mainly on the body though

Posted: Sun Aug 05, 2007 9:11 pm
by Alec
Hello all,

Plus Gas is far more effective than 3 in 1 or the other favourite WD40 for penetrating. However these nuts are very often just tight and so the requirement for a good spanner. Also because of the restricted access, it is not always easy to get a good pull hence 'shocking' the spanner often helps free the nut.

Alec

Posted: Sun Aug 05, 2007 9:15 pm
by bmcecosse
You will obviously also need to hold the track rod while turning the nut. Whitworth sizes are a completely different system to the 'imperial' sizes - very few interchange. Gas blow torch is v cheap and an excellent stand-by tool.

arcangelo - you should start a new 'thread' for your query about the gearchange

Posted: Sun Aug 05, 2007 9:15 pm
by HarryMango
sansom wrote:So are Whitworth different sizes to the typical imperial jobbies (AF?) in my spanner set?
Yes - Most suspension & body fixings were originally BSF (British Standard Fine) threads; Most engine fixings were UNF (Unified Fine)threads which is what most people now call Imperial or AF: Most trim fixings were BA (British Association)

The BSF sizes are referred to by the diameter of the thread whereas UNF (AF) are known by the diameter of the head (AF - Across Flats)

The BSF heads are the same sizes as the earlier coarse Whitworth threads except that they are 1 size up - so 5/16BSF uses a 1/4Whit spanner.

So you need spanners/sockets in both UNF/AF and BSF/Whitworth to work on a Minor.

Hope that is not too confusing :D

Rog