Morris Minor Owners Club

right i've had a lot of thought and discussions with a certain person on here (sorry J decided on the other option) with regards to dipping my split

the paint is so bad u wouldn't belive i've spent the best part of 3 day d/aing the roof and on closer inspection the paint is so bad i've decided to have it dipped.

who ever done the work needs shooting so much money has gone down the drain. the stripped the car completely to re-spray it but haven't rubbed it down the paint just picks off with your nail in places and i took the headlining out today and its even peeling under there

all round the door seals is chipping away and as u all know the edges on a mog are a nightmare to rub down and it will need bare metaling all over by the looks on how bad the paint is.
plus the welding they done my word itd bad. they've put new lips on the rear wings and haven't cut out the olod rust so they've now gone too both sills have gone as they just welded the new ones over the old etc etc.
why do ppl do these things we may as well take our money and just throw it down the drain instead of giving it to plonkers like the ppl who did the work and yes it was done by a so called minor specialist!!!!!!!!!!!!!

anyway thats enough of spouting off

i'm having it dipped and it'll need welding done so whats the best thing to seal the bare metal with that can be welded.
and that can have celly paint put on top of please
and that will hold the rust off until i can get it painted the dippers have offered to oil it but i then have the problem of removing the oil before i can do any work so i don't really want to go down that route

I used one of the cup wire brushes in my angle grinder and stripped my bodyshell of at least 6 layers of paint in about 4 hours (minus doors bonnet etc). Shell is now off to media blasters for an easy strip now (was let down by another outfit - waited 7 months with no result - new metal is now rusty) and I didn't want too much distortion (in the flatter panels) in the process.
DA sanding does take a long time, so give what I suggest a go, then finish off with the DA.
Tip of the day - wear ear defenders.

Pete

Some pics:


Just started


Getting there




Check out the paint layers



Nearly there




Finished

ah yes but i need to strip mine completely even the indside its that bad

even around the door edges and even the inner wings etc

every single piece of paint needs to come off the car as its reacted and is chipping off

I'd be tempted to get another bodyshell that is in good order - been a few on Ebay recently, and swap mechanicals over. Of course, if your car has a sentimental attachment (like mine has - owned since 1972), then you will have to do the work.

Pete

What about using nitromours then a pressure washer to strip it off - then more nitromours..etc.. rinse and repeat til its all off and you're back to metal.

One of my mates uses a hot air gun and literally burns the paint off... although I'd worry too much about distortion myself.

Dipping sounds like a great idea but I bet it wont be cheap.

in the region of £350 for the whole lot

then i want it e coated which is about £500 but that'll stop it rusting and prolong the life of the metal too

dunketh wrote:What about using nitromours then a pressure washer to strip it off - then more nitromours..etc.. rinse and repeat til its all off and you're back to metal.

I used that to strip the engine bay on the Triumph. Was a pain, sometimes literally as when some of the gel sits on your skin it starts to sting a touch!

Took a lot of stripper, scraping and time to get it all back to bare metal, some of the factory red primer/ undercoat just didn't want to shift.

One of my mates uses a hot air gun and literally burns the paint off... although I'd worry too much about distortion myself.

I was using the hot air gun on the Midget floors to get the underseal and rubbery paint off, worked really well. Also used it a little on the Triumph floors with success. And I was told the pickup cab was taken back to bare metal with a hot air gun and scraper. The idea is to soften the paint so you can get teh scraper under it and simply peel it off, so as long as you're careful I think you should get away without distortion

I'm thinking of just using discs and things on the grinder next time though.

"and yes it was done by a so called minor specialist!!!!!!!!!!!!! "

I've seen work like that done by simmilar, maybe the same company?

"i'm having it dipped and it'll need welding done so whats the best thing to seal the bare metal with that can be welded. "

I've heard good things about the Bilt Hamber etch weld. Steve R used it on his split screen. Its an etch primer, so will protect bare metal (if kept dry) and also weldable! Or you could use a Zinc weld thru spray.

If your car has acrylic paint on it, such as 2-pack, which has reacted then it will come off very easily with hot air gun and a scraper. It will bubble up and take lower layers of paint with it. Then sand it all smooth.

£350 actually sounds very cheap for the dip - although it soon adds up by the sounds of it.

What about just getting the dip done then spraying the whole lot in zinc primer?

£350 + £500 = New Shell in my book!

The dip and E coat is the best way to achieve a long lasting rust free environment. SPL offer a dip and etch prime ,however the etch with the best will in the world will not get into every nook and cranny, so having the E coat which is yet another total immersion process is the only true way you coat every part of the car. I'll post some pics if someone would host them for me, of a traveller we have had SPL'd

Email them over Jonathon ;)

and i can vouch for that trav its well kool
that e coat is brill stuff by the looks of it

jonathon wrote: I'll post some pics if someone would host them for me, of a traveller we have had SPL'd

Mail them over - biggingerATbigginger.com

'K, those pics

Cheers Andrew

That is simply amazing!
If money were no object I'd do this to mine. You could have a 'better than brand new' Minor!

Just imagine one done like this with all new interior, fancy brakes and a nice 16v engine - you could sell them as 'new' cars to rival the modern stuff. Why buy a Focus or euro-box when you can have a truly 'modern' classic!

That's what we try and do