Morris Minor Owners Club

Whats the best way to go about securely having the mog up in the air as it were to start doing sills, spring hangers etc? I have thought about using concrete blocks in various areas.

YG

youngun wrote:Whats the best way to go about securely having the mog up in the air as it were to start doing sills, spring hangers etc? I have thought about using concrete blocks in various areas.

YG

Although I admit to using concrete blocks myself in the past I've also experiences them breaking so would say they aren't to be recommended.
I have 12 ton axle stands. I've got these not for the capacity but rather the high they support as needed with Land Rovers etc.
If you really want to use something solid like a block see if you can get some old railway sleepeers and cut them into chunks with a chain saw.

Paul Humphries

Maybe put a stack of old tyres underneath too as a backup.

When I've put a car up on stands I give it a shake to make sure it's stable before I risk going underneath.

Are there any particular areas that need to be supported when cutting out and welding in new sills etc?

I found rolling the car on a metal pole the best way for me,i've done too many years of welding on my back with all the debris falling ontop of me.
I suppose it depends on how much of the parts are left on the shell.


which ever way be careful

Actually you've reminded me of something GAS! The person i bought the mog off (my A level design teacher) has a proper rollover cage for a mog....... might be worth asking if i can borrow it!

By far the best way is on it's side - either use a pole (like GAS) or carefully tip it onto something nice and soft! Best with petrol/battery/engine/gearbox and rear axle oil all removed.

bmcecosse wrote:By far the best way is on it's side - either use a pole (like GAS) or carefully tip it onto something nice and soft! Best with petrol/battery/engine/gearbox and rear axle oil all removed.

Thats alright, thats already all gone!

yg your rollover cage from your x teacher would be ideal if you can get it.One tip It's a good idea to weld a length of angle iron or pole accross the bottom of the door frames before you cut out the sill,it stops the car from spreading inwards or outwards. (Is essential on mgb).Then when you weld the new sections in the door gaps should be right.Then grind off the supports. I suspect that most classics with poorly fitting doors,gaps a mile wide or too tight,are the result of just cutting and welding .Good luck with the job

FWIW I have a bender that will take scaffolding sized pole.
A decent British made unit and not one of the Chinese items that Machine Mart etc sell.
If anyone wants to make a roll over frame they are more than welcome to bring the poles here to get them bent (I also know of a local firm that will sell them - 21' length for £10).

Paul Humphries,
Werrington,
Stoke-on-Trent

Now that's a great offer - if only you weren't so far away from me !!!

bmcecosse wrote:Now that's a great offer - if only you weren't so far away from me !!!

But how far are you from Kirkcaldy as Bill is from there and comes down this way every so often.
In fact he's comming down next week or so.
No problem getting a couple of lengths of scaffolding (just this afternoon picked up 8 @ £10 each for 21' ), cutting to size and putting bends in.
PM me if you want to work out a design and I'll let you know the radius my bender will do in the 48mm size.
KeeKlamps are a useful way of making secure yet dismantable.
http://commercecenter.keeklamp.com/Main.asp

Paul Humphries

Or you can use a forklift to bend the poles like PaulK did ;)

I don't actually need a roll over frame at the moment - but I may do in the near future!! Will bear your offer in mind - thanks.