Page 1 of 1
Front inner wings
Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2007 1:08 pm
by youngun
I removed the wings today, and a nice solid set of inner wings greeted me, bar for a few 'oles on the lower rear panel just infront of the A post (if that makes sense). Would it be advisable to just cut out the rotten section and weld in a new bit, or rip it all out to inspect the inside THEN weld in an entire new section?
Ill put some pictures up this evening, but for now i must hasten back to the shed.......
Thanks
YG
Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2007 1:49 pm
by Matt
I would cut out the rotton bit and weld a new bit in!... no point removing solid metal, but check very carefully if it is solid ;)
Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2007 2:24 pm
by alex_holden
Attack it with a wire brush on an angle grinder and see what's left. Anything that's still solid (ie. no holes) probably doesn't need replacing. It depends how far gone it is whether it makes more sense to replace a bit of it with a home-made panel or to fit the commercial inner wing repair panel. Note that the outer skin of the inner wing extends back further than the hinge cover plate and it can be rotten underneath the cover.
Take a look at
this thread.
Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2007 4:34 pm
by youngun
Seems like it would be a good idea to remove the cover plate and have a nose around inside then.
Ive seen "spot weld drills" being mentioned a couple of times, are these any good?
Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2007 8:17 pm
by youngun
Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2007 9:41 pm
by kennatt
hi yg looks typical type of moggie problem .if you take the doors off you will probably find that the bottom of the A post is also ripe.You need to cut out all the rot,and start from the inside replacing all bits of rust and work outwards. You will find that theres probably nothing left to weld the inner wing repair to unless you remake the bottom outer firewall/bulkhead,bottom of A post and front of the outersill area. Great isn't it,nice feeling when you see the finished patch work.Shame to cover it up with paint and underseal . The spot weld removers work fine but soon go blunt. Iv'e found the best way( if there is room) is to use a grinder with a cutting disc ,cut accross the spot weld without damaging the inside of the joint,then use a sharp chisel and hammer to split the weld open at the spot weld and pull off the top bit of panel. Best of luck with it
Posted: Sun Jul 01, 2007 4:39 pm
by youngun
Cheers Ken, doors will be coming off next........Pictures to follow!
Posted: Wed Jul 04, 2007 4:50 pm
by youngun
Right, Ive got all the doors off, and surprisingly the bottom of the A post is fairly solid. Just a slight hole above where the sill is welded to it. I removed the hinger cover panel, and amazingly it wasnt hiding anything nasty, im going to need a new section of inner wing though. As the area where the trap nuts are is nicely rusted.
I will be doing an order of stuff from ESM soon, is there any particular jobs i should do first? I have to do some boot floor repairs, rear spring hanger (nearside), rear inner wings (both sides), front spring hangers (both sides), sills all round, nearside chassis rail (front most section only), passenger footwells (light patching only), rear section of front inner wings and corresponding hinge covers.
start at the back and work forward? Sills first? Spring hangers first?
Thanks
YG
Posted: Wed Jul 04, 2007 4:57 pm
by chickenjohn
Personally, I would sort the spring hangers out first so the car has firm suspension mounts and you can get it back on its wheels and mobile again! You can then cut the sill pieces to but up to the front spring hanger plate. Other than that, if your workspace is small like mine, it might be best to do one side of the car at a time. Or one corner at a time. Get the door gap right and brace the opening before cutting sill panels off. Try and keep the inner sill step if you can save it by repairs.
Posted: Wed Jul 04, 2007 7:26 pm
by youngun
Posted: Wed Jul 04, 2007 11:33 pm
by chickenjohn
none of those links work for me!
Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2007 8:28 am
by kennatt
nor me
Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2007 1:35 pm
by youngun
Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2007 4:42 pm
by dunketh
Just infront of the A post?
You mean where the two bottom captive nuts are for the wing?
(sorry, cant see pics as they're on pbucket)
If its here then you most likely have bigger problems - this is were the inner sills meet up. No doubt they'll be rotton too, possibly the bottom of your B and C posts too if they are... same old story...
Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2007 6:10 pm
by youngun
dunketh wrote:Just infront of the A post?
You mean where the two bottom captive nuts are for the wing?
(sorry, cant see pics as they're on pbucket)
If its here then you most likely have bigger problems - this is were the inner sills meet up. No doubt they'll be rotton too, possibly the bottom of your B and C posts too if they are... same old story...
Yeap, the area of the inner wing is very hole filled. But ive cut away the rotten area and the inside seems alright, BUT The bottom of the sill looks a bit suspect.
Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2007 8:32 pm
by wanderinstar
Just gone through your Photobucket album. Looks like you will have your handsful for quite a while. Going by the rest of car I think the flitch ext. panel joint with ftitch panel will probably be rusted through (mine were) in which case you will be better replacing whole panel and ext. panel.
Will have to put my pictures on P/bucket.
Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2007 9:25 pm
by youngun
Flitch panel? Someone please explain here.....
Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2007 10:17 pm
by wanderinstar
http://morrisminorspares.co.uk/shop/ind ... a39accebd3
inner wing (flitch panel) RP122R
Inner wing ext (flitch ext.) RP122 BR
Posted: Fri Jul 06, 2007 3:19 pm
by youngun
Ah right, the plan was to cut away all the rusted area and replace it with the necessary parts. I also have a rust hole at the bottom of the wheel arch on both sides. The sill in front of the A post is also quite bad, is this dealt with when new sills are put in or is this part of a different section?
