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Spray Time?

Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2007 9:22 am
by 8009STEVE
Is it going to rain all today? I have prep'ed the car and want to spray her.

Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2007 9:33 am
by jonathon
Don't do it, unless you have a heated booth/garage/leanto you will get too much moisture in the paint, which will surface in a few weeks causing micro blisters, requireing a respray. :( :wink:

Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2007 11:33 am
by Orkney
Anyone know the name of the hand applied paint specifically for cars that gives a good finish? Used to know someone who repaired knocked about runarounds and swore by the stuff, apparently if your careful with a gloss radiator roller you cant tell it hast been sprayed from 12ft away.
Be interested in trying some for a quick cosmetic fix until the real restoration begins.

Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2007 11:38 am
by alex_holden
Sounds like synthetic enamel coach paint. My landlord hand-painted a pre-war black Merc that way and you couldn't tell it hadn't been sprayed. I think he said he flatted it down after brushing it on, then brushed a coat of clear varnish over the top. That's how the old coach builders used to paint coaches, except they used real enamel rather than synthetic. Watch out though: you can't spray cellulose over synthetic enamel because it will react badly to the thinners and peel off. In theory you can spray a "barrier" coat between the two, but I'm not sure I'd want to risk it myself.

Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2007 11:44 am
by 8009STEVE
Long time ago there was a brush applid paint called REPAINT.

Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2007 11:50 am
by Orkney
Hmm yes intersting that once done another may not take afterwards, had massive problems some years ago with a range rover that had a non compatible lacquer over the metallic paint - nothing would take to it in the places it hadn't fallen off by its own fruition.

Wont matter in this case as a full bare metal will be on the cards in a year or two so - good opportunity to experiment really and with the added bonus it wont look any where close to worse even if it goes horribly wrong.
The laddo I used to know (trainee Arfur Daley :-) ) swore by the stuff and it was a specific branded product for the purpose. But that was when cheap runabouts with 6 months tax and test wernt so cheap so people would be actively doing up motors to subsidise the giro !

Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2007 12:51 pm
by kennatt
my grandfather,long gone,was a coach builder,on the old coaches and horsedraw waggon and later onto cars. I always remembers him saying that spraying paint was only introduced because nobody was being trained into coach building. He said that you could put deeper coats of paint on with the proper coach paint and brushes,with more control over where the paint went. No masking up no overspray.But very time consuming. About 40 years ago he supervised me painting a berkely three wheeler(Wish I still Had it).using repaint.With his guidence you could'nt see the brush marks at all.It was all about rapid cross strokes before the paint dried. Couldnt do it now havent got the patience. But it shows that if you get the right paint,think repaint is still available,and good brushes,a good finish can be had.Not for me ,though spray gun every time. So long a celly paint is still available. good luck with it ken

Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2007 1:09 pm
by Orkney
Heres an interesting link - some really nice coach painting work - if it works with that result on an old transit then deffo worth a go on the traveller :-)

http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk/

Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2007 6:25 pm
by bmcecosse
I painted my two Morris 8Es many moons ago this way - it was coach enamel and a special additive was put in to make the paint 'flow out' so the brush marks all but disappeared. It was good - but slow drying and so tended to attract dust/flies etc before it had fully dried!

Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2007 7:01 pm
by bmcecosse
For spraying celly you need low humidity - warm helps, but cold frosty winter day works well too. But very important to have low humidity or you will have 'bloom'.

Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2007 7:43 pm
by mickessex
Take a look at this thread on the VW site is this the paint you are referring to? Quite a long thread though.

http://www.volkszone.com/VZi/showthread ... ge=1&pp=10

Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2007 8:08 pm
by Orkney
Saw that thread whilst googling for the stuff - yes certainly seems like it .
Spraying is a no go here, too humid, generally too cold.
Will try that paint in a couple of months and let everyone know the results !

Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2007 10:06 pm
by youngun
I remember an old family friend hand painted the bonnet of the Jowett, used Cellulose paint and super quick brush strokes........it was like glass when it dried. 15 years later, not a spot of rust and the shine is as deep as it ever was

Posted: Mon Jun 25, 2007 12:30 am
by washer-bottle
Tekaloid Coach Enamel is the stuff to use - as recommened by the proper restorers of horse drawn carriages (ie not me). When I last ordered some it was personally delivered to my door. I ordered a tin of the thinners with the paint - it comes in tins. Its quite tricky to use on vertical surfaces, but you will soon get the hang of it. Every insect will want to land in it though. You want a warm dry (not humid) day and a clean, dust free environment.

Details correct in 2003 .... I hope this post is allowed as I remember it took me some time to track down a supplier to the public.
Tekaloid Synthetic Enamel can be ordered from The Avenue Group Website
http://www.avenue-group.co.uk/ or by Telephoning 01753 686888 asking for Alan Peckett or E-mail avenue@avenue-group.co.uk

The other link in this thread has a link to an old Tekaloid colour chart.
http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk/tekaloid.html

Restoring a carriage is just as slow as restoring a Minor ... my other vehicle is from 1881.

Al

Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 7:38 pm
by wanderinstar
I have used Tekaloid in the past but have just found this thread about this Rusroleum paint. The trouble with Tekaloid is that you cannot wetflat and buff the final coat up. So if you get dust or flying nasties on it, they either stay on or you have to flat it down and start again.
However with Rustoleum it seems you can flat and buff and then wax polish.
Best of both worlds, or so it seems.

Question is, has anyone used it and is it as good as everyone says.