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Right, what do i have to do?
Posted: Mon Jun 18, 2007 5:44 pm
by youngun
I took off the dreaded kick plates today, and was met with a sea of rust and 'oles. On inspection it only appears to be the outer areas.....but being new to Minors im not entirely sure about any of it!
Whats the verdict?
Thanks,
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u118 ... C00072.jpg
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u118 ... C00070.jpg
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u118 ... C00071.jpg
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u118 ... C00066.jpg
Posted: Mon Jun 18, 2007 5:57 pm
by steve4063
have fun thats what i'm doping at the minute.
very dareing stuff if you've never done it before.
it looks like you may as well change the whole lot as once you start stripping it ayou'll need good metal to weld with.
its not as bad as it first looks but it'll test your welding skills as it is originally spot welded but i don't like spot soi i'd rather seam all the joins.
just be careful what you're cutting out and take your time
there are a lot of threads about this.
mainly ppl say brace the doors etc but i managed to sup[port mine all round with axle stands and ramps and its been ok luckily.
Posted: Mon Jun 18, 2007 7:03 pm
by youngun
Hmm, so what bits am i going to need. Looking on ESM there appears to be all sorts, but being new im not sure what i will need and what i wont!
Posted: Mon Jun 18, 2007 8:02 pm
by steve4063
to do the whole sill structure you'll need
inner sill step
floor edge panel (inner front
floor edge panel (inner rear)
inner sill step
outer under sill
this is the complete sill section obviusly they are handed so get the right ones.
i'll try and upload some pics
Posted: Mon Jun 18, 2007 8:42 pm
by gairlochrosie
Mig time by the look of it..

Posted: Mon Jun 18, 2007 8:49 pm
by steve4063
Posted: Tue Jun 19, 2007 6:16 pm
by youngun
Doesnt look like too much of a pig, i know i have a nearside chassis rail to replace........
it would be great if there was some kind of step by step guide as i really dont want to start cutting and welding before i dont really know what im doing. Has anyone got any tips.
By the way, the MIG i have is a Sealey 180 Supermig, this will be ok for the works wont it?
Took the nearside kick plates etc off today, and was greeted with this, not bad really. The inner sill is practically non-existent however!
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u118 ... leaned.jpg
This is the rear nearside sill, whats the best way to attack this?
ttp://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u118/yamahafs1e/Nearsiderearsillcleaned.jpg
Possibly my worst bit of rust, rear nearside spring hangar and area around it, eeeeek.
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u118 ... n07002.jpg
Posted: Tue Jun 19, 2007 7:10 pm
by flying

i hope you like welding!!!!! i had to do the same in the last few months....

but it will be worthwhile in the end
here is what i did
http://www.morrisminoroc.co.uk/index.ph ... ic&t=12278
Posted: Tue Jun 19, 2007 7:25 pm
by youngun
Ah, welding is no problem. It just gets so boooooooring after a few hours of it though.
Nice work there flying!
Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2007 6:01 pm
by youngun
Right, out came the fuel tank and back seats today.
Looks like the main part of my inner wings are still sound, but theres some rust at the very rear. Plus theres some rust on the boot floor! Take a look at the pics, what will i need to repair this?
Incidently, is the fuel tank sposed to be painted black, or the colour of the car, as ill probably sand blast it and paint it at the weekend.
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u118 ... rJun07.jpg
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u118 ... gJun07.jpg
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u118 ... n07002.jpg
Thanks again, youngun
Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2007 7:38 am
by chickenjohn
I would take all the paint and underseal off the boot floor and inner wings. If its just those localised areas and the rest is sound- you are lucky - can get away with neatly butt welding in small areas.
If its any help to you- here is a guide to rear chassis/ inner wing repair.
http://homepages.gotadsl.co.uk/~jgm/ekm ... hanger.htm

Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2007 7:04 pm
by youngun
Chickenjohn, thanks for the link, those pages will be a great help.
Ive started to take off the paint and underseal using a combination of a twist knot brush on the grinder, and a scraper. Has anyone got any tips for removing the damn stuff?
Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2007 7:19 pm
by chickenjohn
Underseal? best way is to heat it with a heat gun (a powerful hairdrier, about £10 from Machine mart) and use a scraper. I have heat gun in left hand and scraper in right heating just in front of where I'm srapeing , the other day I managed to scape all the underseal off a rear innerwing in about 15 mins- so its a quick technique and less messy than wire brush.
Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 3:56 pm
by kennatt
younggun, forgive me if I sound condecending or doubt your ability but as a matter of safety the areas you intend to weld are part of the structure of the body and needs to be done Properly or the car will either be out of line or unsafe.An mot tester will soon see the quality of your work.You say that welding is not a problem for you but ask if the mig you have is ok to use

and from other questions I get the impression that you havent done this sort of repair before. Its not something to be taken lightly when your life or someone elses is at stake. Again forgive me if I am speaking out of turn ,you may be a professional welder for all I know,Just concerned that you are taking on more than your questions would indicate,you are capable of. All the best ken
Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 4:01 pm
by kennatt
yg just seen an ealier post of your three years of welding is more than enough forget my last cheers
Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 5:45 pm
by youngun
Thats quite alright ken and I thank you for your concern. Im quite happy to weld the sills, but i do have a front chassis leg that needs welding, this will be done professionally for peace of mind. I am new to moggies, and am asking a lot of questions to make sure that i get it right!
As for asking if my welder is ok, lets just say its a bit errr rustic.....there is very little adjustment amperage wise, i.e one setting will not penertrate whilst the next setting up will blow right through and so on!
Ill be putting up more questions and photos soon. Im going to need all the advice and help possible to make sure i get it right.
Anyway, I have now got a list of what needs doing (so far).
Sills all round
Rear and front spring hangars
Nearside front chassis leg and tie plate
Boot floor
Are there any step by step guides out there?
Thanks,
YG
Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 6:01 pm
by youngun
Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 6:53 pm
by chickenjohn
Looks fairly standard Minor rust areas! You can buy the rear most section of the inner rear wing, and you may need to follow my rear chassis guide!
As for the tie plate rust- set to the area with a wire brush on grinder, first twist knot, then finer wire brush to get into the pits. You may find like I did on my Traveller that you can cut out a rectangle of rot, cut a piece of 1mm steel to fit and neatly butt weld it in. I found the rest of the tie plate was sound.
Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 7:02 pm
by chickenjohn
One very good point about your car is the lack of previous bodged repairs. Its much harder to cut through 3 or 4 layers of past bad repairs before you can weld in the repair.
Posted: Sat Jun 23, 2007 5:51 pm
by youngun
Thanks John,
I think a shopping list is going to haved to arranged. What ill do is most likely put up photos and descriptions of what needs doing, and hopefully i can be advised on what to buy etc.
Thanks again,
YG