Morris Minor Owners Club

I'm looking at doing some work to my sills. They're solid but the driver side in particular is an embarassing patchwork mess.
The main plan I'm considering is welding a long flat plate in place of the main sill so its 'flat' on the inside - losing the 'ridge' of the original - and then using a long right-angle piece in place of the standard 'boxing' plate.
The idea of this being to make a totally inclosed box section along the back of the sill where water cannot access.
I would then repair the bottom of the C & B posts to fit these flat plates.

Essentially the sill area would be the same design as original only with a solid, sealed box section and flat sill floor area.

The finisher rail would then be welded to the edge of the flat sill plate, effectively keeping it in the same place but making it part of the structure.

Now here's the 'clever' bit. I attach the sill covers using piano hinges.

Now the main drive behind this is to engineer-out the main problem areas. 99% of the minors I've seen in the flesh have rotton out in the area where the cover plate, and the finisher bolt to the sill. Also the bolts go all grotty and become one with the surrounding rot.
Having the plates hinged would also make them easy to maintain, as part of my weekly wash and wax I could open the covers and check the inside, maybe applying more waxoil, that kind of thing.

Any ideas? Suggestions as to why its all a very bad idea?

the only way the sill covers are held on is with bolts to the finisher rail.
occasionly they'll have small screws at the top.

so as long as u keep the bolts greased they should come undone easily anyway.

plus if you hinge it will it be able to open with the door still on?????????

I'd hinge the cover on the finisher rail, obviously after having cut off the metal edge that normally gets sandwiched between the rail and the sill.

The more I think about it though, the more I'm starting to think I should just do it as standard.
Trouble is I can't afford the new panels so the sill and box section would probably be solid bits of steel regardless.
I cant see the merit in the box section being 'holed' anyway other than for weight saving.

I was looking at photos of a wolesely 1500 and they (at the back at least) seem to have the sills as a completely sealed box like a modern car - with no removable covers at all.

Steel with formed holes is stronger than flat sheet. I would keep the outer sill covers removeable rather than hinged!

If you make any box section totally enclosed without suitable ventilation/drainage holes it will rot through in about three years maximum. The sill sections actually extend from the front wheel arch
to the rear wheel arch so if you weld the underdoor section solid it would
make any future remedial work extremely difficult.

I've just had to scrap a chassis 'cos someone decided that the answer to rotten sills was to put in a 6mm floor and weld it to the thing rather than replace/repair what was there. Be careful, things are (on the whole) generally built the way they are for a reason.

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I agree, with the others, re-build the sills as standard- all the parts are available, and the standard design lasts a long time with drain holes and regular wax injection to protect. Use weld thru zinc spray between all the flanges and overlaps and use good paint will help to preserve the structure too!