Morris Minor Owners Club

Sorry to overload you guys but the next job is the rubber gators on the steering rack. Has anyone done this job? The haynes manual doesn't mention how to do it. Can it be done without taking the steering rack out? Any tips would be greatly appreciated, thanks

Pete

yes can be done without taking the rack out. Apparently some people have done it leaving the track rod ends on, but personally I would remove them, just take the old gators off, slide the new ones on and hold in place with your fav. method of attachment (eg. cable ties)

While in there - check the track rod to rack ball/cup joints. If these are slack they can be adjusted up.

I changed mine a couple of months ago. I had a right job undoing old jubilee clips, took me forever. Even thought about removing rack to do job. I put cable ties on the replacement, easier by far.

[quote="Matt"] Apparently some people have done it leaving the track rod ends on, but personally I would remove them,

Oh do tell how it can be done without taking the track rod ends off Must be like one of those feindish puzzles involving bent wire and a piece of knotted rope.... Be nice not to disturb the tracking or even faff about undoing a rusted on trackrod end, but how you get something rubber with a 1/2" hole in one end over a trackrod end about 1 1/2" across, I cant imagine....

Pop to your local motor factors and ask for a steering gaiter cone, heat the gaiter up in really hot (just bareable to the touch) water, vaseline the cone and it will stretch and slide over the track rod end ;)

- Draper part number 54680 ;)

Wow, never seen one of those before! Might have to get one. Saves chewing up the boot on the track rod end getting it off and loosing the tracking. And of course when the kettle is boiled its a good excuse for a brew too!
(I know you can get more subtle ball joint splitters, but theres nothing so satisfying than going in there with the big forked chisel and big hammer. If I grease it first it can be done without ripping the track rod end boot but a bit of a lottery really).

Either way you still need to take the TRE off the steering arm ! But no need to lose the tracking - just leave the locknut in place and wind the TRE off. The boot can be easily slid over the locknut - then TRE back on up to the locknut and tracking is as before.

I may be dim, but I don't see this. The gaiter at the small end is only half an inch wide. Are you saying there is enough stretch in it to get it over the track rod end. I even doubt it would go over the lock nut.

I'll buy some Irn Bru at Tescos later.

Def goes over locknut. The device above - hmmmmmmmm.

I've used them on TRE and CV joints. First time I was stunned at how much they stretch but they have to be really soft hence the hot water. I did both outer CV boots on the Cavalier in just under an hour with my cone

I think this explains a lot
http://www.bailcast.com/duraboot-sr-fitting

Paul Humphries

Aye - it's not a huge enormous cone as shown above!! And I think the boots they sell are designed to be fitted that way - very resilient rubber mix.

Well I thought I would post this here.
My mot is due end of the month. Adviseries were brake flexible pipes on front and steering gators.
At least every thing I was doing was in the same area and doing one helped doing the other. Got the track rod ends off no problem, didn't even have to use the forked chisel. Cut the old gators off but could not get new one on, tried hot water, stretching etc. Best method I found was folding the gator back on its self pushed it on then folded back out and zip tied. The brake pipes were easy. Just got to bleed it, job done.

Surely easier to just take the TRE off the track rod ? No risk of stretching/tearing the rubber boot. The locknut can be left in place so the TRE goes back same length. Don't forget to grease the rack now - all the old oil will have long run away.

No big deal to remove tre, when done just measure the distance from end of steering rod to front of nut and remove this as well, use a depth gauge for this measurement and correct reassembly is assured ( providing tracking was correct before!) with the poor rubber quality about now, this procedure avoids damage by stretching.

Snap!

I did take the track rod ends off, forgot to grease it, but all looked good and well oiled up.

It greases from inside the car - through the grease nipple...... moly grease is best!