Morris Minor Owners Club

My latest boot sale buy!



Has anyone got the directions for use? perhaps you could scan and send to me at cdeakins at onetel dot com or just post the information on the forum

Many thanks.

http://www.stu-offroad.com/suspension/f ... l/ft-1.htm

try this one

This looks identical to my Draper tool. In which case - you are better off without the instructions, because the Draper instructions are completely wrong!! The tool works fine - but just follow your nose. Practice makes perfect - so grab an odd length of pipe and give it a try.

Steve, thanks for link, very informative

BM: agree with your comments, I have been practicing but Steve's link was a great help

Thanks both

Don't forget that there are 2 types of flare, single and double. The single flare is what you get from the first step of the process and is used when the fitting it goes into has a countersunk end to the hole.

The 'double' flare, achieved from the second stage of the process, is used when the fitting has what looks like a bit sticking up from the bottom of the hole. This 'bit' goes inside the countersunk part of the flared tube.

Can double flaring tool do single flares?

Yes - you do a single flare - and then convert it to the double flare with the second Op - so just stop before doing the second Op!

Does the tool shown do concave flares? It doesn't seem to have enough punches. I've seen far too many attempts at concave flares that were obviously done in one stage - expanding the pipe without first squeezing material up into a convex flare. The flare then often has a crack, which could lead to eventual leakage or failure.

I use an old Sykes Pickavant tool, but I need 1/4" and 4.75mm punches and dies, and S-P have stopped selling them for this model.

Kevin

It is important to have sufficient tube sticking through - and I find a drop of brake fluid on the tube helps. Yes - that kit does double flares when needed.

picked up an identical tool to the OP. not impressed. the vice doesn't hold the pipe even when clamped up to the tightest, and leaves unsightly marks on the pipe, anyone else used to this? how essential are mushroom double flares because it can barely do single flares, i think it did a double flare(ish) before the threads gave up the ghost and feels completely smooth on 3/16ths vice position. i am looking at a sub 40 pounds laser brand inline tool that has a trigger squeeze mechanism instead of this exciting tool before me.

"Tighten the wing nuts on the clamp as tight as you can so the tubing does not move while the flare is being formed".

This leaves real scored marks on the tube. Nothing like the pre prepared pipes I have seen. Is this to be expected?

Well yes- but there is a compromise between tightening it just enough to grip it - without marking it too much. Are you using Kunifer ? It's critical to get just the right amount of pipe sticking through the clamp - and the end needs to be nicely prepared by cutting it off with a little wheel cutter - not a hacksaw. And a spot of brake fluid on the end to lubricate the flaring operation!

I can't get along with this thing! See my other post. Using kunifer. Going to try this other tool.

I can't get along with this thing! See my other post. Using kunifer. Going to try this other tool. Damn the laser grip tool only does between 5 to 16mm pipes and tubes. No good? 5mm is 3/16ths right?

No -3/16" is smaller than 5mm 3/16 = 0.1875" and 5mm = 0.19685" (normally we would say it was 200 thou!)

This sounds like someone from the marketing department overruling the engineers (as ever). A bit like someone referring to a 3/8" bsf spanner as a 9.5mm one, because it sounds more modern.

More important is to know the shape of the flare it produces, because ISO metric flares are a different profile to the ones we are used to. The metric brake pipe used on modern (i.e. most 70s onwards) cars is designated 4.75mm, and, as far as I know, is sold as identical to 3/16" should be flared with a different punch and dies when used with metric fittings. In practice, I've got away with using imperial flares, relying on the pipe fittings to reshape the flare as necessary, but it's not ideal.

Kevin

Sales blurb for the laser tool seems to use 5mm 3/16 interchangeably. I am sure it will be fine for flaring, the quality of the form and the compression joint being important here rather than a 20 thou. This other kit needs a degree in miracles seems hit and miss for some maybe lack of quality in some kits?

purchased the laser tool, must say it is perfect much better than the one I had similar to the one that the original poster used.

the literature states that:

\ / = Female Flare

( ) = Male Flare

(\ /) = Double Flare

Bearing in mind I have done six flares in my life before using the laser tool, and here were the results ..

first flare .. i presume is a single flare. first part of the tool, just the mandrel.[frame][/frame]

second type of flare, (bmc calls this "double flare" since it's used with the 2nd op black moulding tool? however this is listed in the laser tool instructions as a female flare) the pictures are above and then profile of the same flare.[frame][/frame]