waxoyl

Post by **les** » Mon May 07, 2007 9:48 pm

I removed the kick plate today to get some measurements, and found that 7 years on the waxoyl was still doing it's job. No signs of rust.

If ever I had any doubts, I haven't now!

Post by **steve4063** » Mon May 07, 2007 10:25 pm

i always knew it was good stuff and brill to get into awkward places if you can get the thing to actually spray

i always have to take it all apart and soak the nozzle in thinners and then poke it with a pin to clear the hole but eventually it works especially if its a warm day and u leave the can in the sun to make it more runny

Post by **Willie** » Tue May 08, 2007 7:58 am

Seconded, my convertibles innards are exactly the same after twelve
years.

Post by **RussLCV** » Tue May 08, 2007 8:24 pm

Use the cannisters on a compressor, the best way, warm the canisters first!!

Post by **chickenjohn** » Wed May 09, 2007 2:16 pm

agreed. compressor and a schutz (l) gun is the way to go for rustproofing.

Post by **wanderinstar** » Thu May 10, 2007 9:36 pm

BE CAREFUL using Shutz gun and compressors. I bought a Shutz gun and it came with a flexible extension. I thought I would extend this to reach all way down chassis legs. The idea was to slowly withdraw the extension while holding the trigger on. That was the idea. In practice and upon reflection I had the extension too long.
The can, full of Waxoyl, exploded. Covering me, the car paintwork and the garage I was using (which was not mine) in Waxoyl.
I still dont rust if left out in the rain.

Post by **Pascal** » Thu May 10, 2007 11:16 pm

Interesting; I was planning to buy a shutz gun and a compressor to waxoyl my moggy this summer. Could it be that the compressor was too powerful?

Could anybody recommend a combination of compressor + shutz gun that works well (make + reference)?

Thanks

Post by **wanderinstar** » Fri May 11, 2007 6:26 am

No, I think my problem was that the "extension" was about 5ft long. You learn by experience. Wont use such a long extension again.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Fri May 11, 2007 7:33 am

Waxoyl works well if diluted with about 25% white spirit - and pre-heat the resultant mix by standing it in a bucket of very hot water. Helps too if the whole operation is done on a nice hot day !!

Post by **steve4063** » Fri May 11, 2007 7:12 pm

whats the best gun at a VERY reasonable price for doing waxoyl then???????

i see in machine mart they range from around the £20 mark.

i went to my local motor factors (wholsalers) today and they wanted nearly £60 for one.!!!!!!!!!!!!

Post by **Pascal** » Fri May 11, 2007 7:16 pm

And what compressor?

Post by **steve4063** » Fri May 11, 2007 7:19 pm

lol i've just got a little compressor cost me about £100 some 5 years ago and its brill.

i do all my own spraying and i even managed to get a ratchet socket set for it from a major diy store that begins with B for only about £20.

not that powerful but does the job.

its only a little 1.5hp thing and VERY portable

Post by **RussLCV** » Sun May 13, 2007 6:56 pm

The machine mart gun is good and you apply stonechip & cavity wax from the 1 litre cartons

Post by **steve4063** » Sun May 13, 2007 7:07 pm

i bought one saturday so hopefully when it stops raining i can get out there and try it out.

whats the best way to clean it after use??

i've got a 5lt tin of thinners will the gun screw on to that to be cleaned?

can u buy the stonechip stuff from m. mart also?

Post by **RussLCV** » Sun May 13, 2007 7:26 pm

No stone chip in machine mart.....................stone chip drys and can be over painted, where body schultz does not

Just blast soem thinners through it from a jar, works fine and the gun is fab. visit my site and you will see some photos on the photo page of the work on my cab and the floor that has been painted is visible

Hope I am allowed to say that (it is a non commercial site for Minor Commercials)

Post by **iandromiskin** » Tue May 15, 2007 1:18 pm

Hi, Sorry for this really ignorant post. Obviously I know what Waxoyl is - a rust preventer and killer etc - but (and here is the embarassing question

) how does it work, what does it look like (paste or liquid) and how do you use it ??

Post by **alex_holden** » Tue May 15, 2007 1:37 pm

I don't think it's got any rust-killing properties. It's a liquid mixture of wax and oil dissolved in white spirit. After you've sprayed or brushed it onto the metal you want to protect, the white spirit evaporates away and it solidifies. The oil prevents further rust by forming a barrier on the steel that keeps moisture and oxygen away from it, and the wax holds the oil in place. You need to warm it up before application to make it runnier (only use a bucket of hot water to do this - heating the can directly with blow torches, hot air guns, stoves etc. can cause it to explode). Some people also thin it down with a bit more white spirit. Don't apply it when the car is cold and/or wet - best to do it after a warm dry spell in the summer.

Post by **steve4063** » Tue May 15, 2007 2:25 pm

well i bought the gun for the compressor mfrom machine mart it was £11 roughly and £3 each for the underseal.

used it today for the first time and have done the complete underneath of the traveller in half an hour.

i thinned it down a little and let the tins on the radiator to warm up tried the flexible nozzle that came with it and threw it in the bin. nothing would come out of it useless.

but the normal nozzle was great i just jacked each side of the car up and it sprayed right to the other side easily.

highly recommended product and i used 3 tins to do the complete car.

Post by **alex_holden** » Tue May 15, 2007 2:39 pm

The flexible nozzle is for injecting it into the cavities (sills, chassis rails, posts, etc.). Some of them have a badly designed spray head that doesn't work properly. Underseal is something different to Waxoyl (though confusingly they sell an underseal that contains Waxoyl).

Post by **chickenjohn** » Tue May 15, 2007 2:41 pm

The flexible nozzle is for use with cavity wax inside box sections. Don;t throw the nozzle away as you can use it with your schutz gun and thinner cavity wax (such as the Dinitrol one) inside sills, chassis legs and door pillar areas.

I wouldn't use underseal on a car as it covers up rust, it doesn't stop it very well.