Morris Minor Owners Club

Ask any of the SADMOG folkies and they'll confirm I'm a total numpty when it comes to understanding anything mechanical...added to that i have the memory of a goldfish with dementia when it comes to remembering even the most straightforward of things (where do you place the jack again...?? )

Still I thought that even I could replace my "bum draggin on the floor" drivers seat - well it's only 4 nut's aint it?!.

Oh no I couldnt - the floor was replaced some while ago and the seat is nut and bolted down (no captive nuts here...), so can anyone tell me how I can lengthen my arms by 10" each in order to hold both nut and bolt for this seemingly easy job?? Or do you have a special "method" that youre willing to share for doing such jobs?.

Im trying to bribe my 11 yr old to help tomorrow but she's looking distinctly unimpressed at the prospect...

Any suggestions?

Sometimes you can wedge a spanner on one side such that it won't turn when you try to undo the other side.

Bribe ??? Just withhold food.
But it's easy enough with a good ring spanner underneath and socket with ratchet above. I have to change my seat before and after every MOT - they won't accept the adjustable seat - say it's too wobbly - but it's exactly as it has always been from new. So I fit a fixed seat to keep them happy.

You think that's tricky? Try fitting a new handbrake cable and holding the little nuts inside the tunnel next to the propshaft while you fit the bolts by the rear passengers' feet. I needed to (gently) use molegrips as the spanner kept falling off.

molegrips - usually work like a dream in these situations. If the molegrips aren't long enough to load on something else (ie they spin round together with the nut) then extend the handle with a bit of pipe (I have a 10" pipe that used to be a spark plug box spanner for that job)
For the handbrake cable I use molegrips + a hammer to wedge them in place

Easiest solution could be wait till Thursday night and let one of us Numpty's hold the spanner and you do the top (as long as its not Peeing down and I'm not wearing my Best Jeans I'll help)

Otherwise its put a spanner on and try and press it against the crossmember and do the top one with another spanner.

I found a similair problem when fitting the new Steering rack but managed to lock the spanner agianst something in the engine bay and undid it like that.

Thanks for the words of wisdom - you wise old Morris Men...

Unable to make it this week Paul - hopefully next.

So Ray - Molegrips eh? - Im sure they do, but which part of the mole do you hold...?...
and where did you say you stick the pipe ?

Clamp the grips to the bolt head (flat against floor), if necessary use pipe to extend them (pipe over handle) till you can use it to stop them rotating, go to the nut side, use a spanner or socket. Bingo

This is the point where I get bored (lose patiance) with spanners and just get the grinder out , cut the nut off then worry about how im gonna re-fit it latter , a bit extreem I know but a lot more fun than trying to free off old bolts and skining your knuckles in the process.

Hope the moleys work for you

The other thing is, you could make them captive nuts with a few blobs of Weld!

Dan_Harris wrote:The other thing is, you could make them captive nuts with a few blobs of Weld!

Oh yea that too.

Easier still if you can borrow the tool is to fit rivnuts, ( a threaded rivett) these are available in steel or aluminium,are neat and very effective. We use these for all enginebay fittings which go on the tie plates or inner flitches, usefull too if the gearbox tunnel screws are locked or the captives are missing.Available in all metric sizes,not sure about imperials

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/h ... ivnuts.php

Got to find me some over here

John

do they do rivnuts in sizes bug enough for wing bolts?