Morris Minor Owners Club

Hello all

The Winchester has yet again come a cropper, whilst taking him for a spin the other day he completely lost power and slowly came to a halt but wouldn't start again, now I'v replaced the ignition coil, changed the spark plugs, checked the fuel pump which is working splendidly and have now smoked about a thousand cigarello's trying to figure it out, I'm now thinking it's a distributor problem.

I should mention he was sputtering a bit for a couple of days before hand.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, if not for me then for my poor lungs.

Points closed up?
Do you have a spark at the plugs?

I shall have a check

with the spark plugs do I have to have the ignition on while checking them? I'v not done it before and don't want to unnecessarily bugger it up

with the spark plugs do I have to have the ignition on while checking them?

yes. - Check each plug for a spark.
Also check you get decent fuel flow though to the carb.

Carb - have you checked to see if the throttle slide comes down smoothly to the bottom. If it gets stuck up at the top (it does happen) then you will not tick over, and certainly not start the engine (unless you are on a very big hill).

I would say it's a fuel supply problem - but you say the pump is working spendidly. How do you know this ? Only way to prove it is 1. Extinguish Cigarello 2. Remove supply pipe from carburettor and place it into the neck of an empty can 3. Switch on ignition and observe fuel flow. It should pump 1 pint in 3 minutes if it's any good. If this is ok - then indeed tirn your attention to the ignition circuits. I suggest new points and condenser - and a new rotor arm. I 'rescued' an MGB last night that had defied it's owners attempts to start it for the last two weeks - including burning out the starter motor - by simply fitting a new rotor arm. It started right away!

I did indeed carry out the fuel line in a jam jar test and it seemed to be working.

The Carb seems ok to

I'v just tried the spark plugs and there's no spark at all, if it is the rotor arm would it be prudent to get new leads as well just to be sure?

It's time to light the meerschaum.

Leads tend to survive not too badly - but a full new set of ignition bits is only going to be about £20 - and then you KNOW it's all new - and should be good for 3 or 4 years true and faithful service with no further problems !

so far I'v fitted a new dynamo, coil, starter, and solenoid, and truth be told the ignition is the only thing which consistantly goes wrong with him.

What constitutes a set of ignition bits? I only ask as I'v made the mistake of thinking I know something I don't and buying completely the wrong thing

I tend to agree with chickejohn, your points gap has closed up, or the little lead that leads to them has come adrift or is shorting somewhere.

You have fuel but no spark, ergo it is an ignition problem.

You have replaced everything on the ignition except the points and condensor. Points closing up would stop the engine dead, condensor wouldn't unless it has short circuited (you can run the engine with no condensor at a pinch), ignition leads being a bit flaky wouldn't stop it dead.

Balance of probability says it's your points.

Points/condenser/rotor arm/dizzy cap/HT leads/spark plugs - with your new coil - that's a complete set! There is also a 'Low Tension' lead inside the dizzy that sometimes gets a bit frayed - may be worth getting that too. And - it's worth checking the vacuum advance unit which usually only last about 10 years. This doesn't stop the car running - but it does make it run rather better. Unfortunately - they are not cheap.

Indeed it was the rotor arm!

when I removed the old one I noticed that half of it had sheared off and has probably been gradually breaking for some time gah!

Now the Winchester is running better than he ever has before

Thank you for all the advice it's always very much appreciated.